The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: bpw on May 25, 2007, 06:36:27 PM
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So I will be changing the oil in my new bike for the first time. Ive done this plenty on other bikes and I went to the dealer to get the gaskets needed. Anything tricky I should know ahead of time. Also what is the oil capacity of these bikes? (its an '81)
Thanks
Ben
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First, do you have an oil cooler on the bike? If you do then you need the 'hinged' oil filter. If not the standard filter will work. Second is the steel washer/shim that the o-ring sits on, after removing the filter and installing the new one, the steel washer/shim goes on first, then the o-ring ( I put the o-ring on the filter cover and then install it). You'll hear this referred to as the $2000 o-ring. If this isn't installed correctly, it could mean an engine overhaul. I'm sure others will add other comments to this as well.
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Bob's hit the nail on the head as far as the only thing to be careful about... That wee washer.
As for oil volumes so long as your not running a cooler the motor is 2.5 ltr or a shade under 4 1/2 pints.
The gearbox takes 800cc or just under a pint and a half.
drive shaft 150cc, (1/4 pint)
rear drive box 350cc (just over a 1/2, pint)
Cheers
Tony
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Checking the oil level is unique, if I remember correctly ( I've had my R65 for 26 years and I can't remember if this method is applicable to other bikes or not) after you remove the dipstick and wipe off the oil, you only insert the dipstick into the engine block , don't thread it in then remove it to check the oil level.
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Best oil-fill level is about half way between full and add...
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Don't use the gasket.
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For a bit over twenty bucks the dealer will sell you an owners manual as well. He won't have it in stock probably, but can get it. Everybody else's numbers sound right though I don't know about oil coolers.
Here's a pretty long article on the topic:
http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/Oil.htm
Good luck,
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Hi thanks everyone. No oil cooler onmy bike and Ill be careful with the o-ring.
One more stupid thing...The filter has apiece of heavy paper/ cardboard wrapped around it in the box, This is just packing material right? It sure looks like it is but wanted to check as it is semi attched around the filter.
ben
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Hi Ben,
Are you talking about the perforated orange paper in the picture? Leave it on, it is part of the filter.
If you get a paper gasket shaped liked the outer cover in your filter box, you can leave it off. Most people are now just putting the cover back on, metal to metal. All the sealing is done with the large O-ring.
Chris
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install just like shown above
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I don't know if anyone else would find this use-full or not, but after an oil and filter change, I would remove the spark-plug leads and install an old set of plugs on the leads and then set the plugs on the cylinder fins and rotate the engine with the starter until the low oil pressure light goes out . Then put the leads back on the plugs and start the engine and do a leak check. Another method is to run the carbs dry with the fuel shut off before you change the oil, then you don't have to mess with the ignition leads.
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+1 Bob on starting the engine with the plugs out to get the oil pressure light to go away.
If you don't leave the plugs attached to the leads (laying on the cylinders and firing) you will fry your electronic ignition. Beware....
Good to see we have once again covered the $2000 O-ring.
TTFN,
Bill
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Thanks guys. I was talking about the orange paper. Seemed like part of the filter but kinda cheesy so wasnt sure. On another note I bought a big socket for the spline job today. Course it was .5 inch drive so I had to buy a bigger socket wrench, which cost almost as much as a torque wrench so...Ive got a new torque wrench now!
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Ben,
I assume the socket you just bought is to remove the pins holding the swingarm on. The lock nuts are quite thin. A good idea before using that socket is too take a grinder and grind the end flat until you have removed the bevel on the inside of the socket. Then the socket will grip the nut completely which is good as it is a fairly hi-torque specification.
Depending on the socket bought, you might also have to grind the circumference of the socket to fit into the recess on the frame.
Chris
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I always thought this is a great photo to show how to modify a socket.
Or - you can click on the picture, and just buy one of these. (no affiliation, etc...)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.culayer.com%2FJoes%2FTool_2.gif&hash=b7b75e00a7cb7f6cbadefddbb9a5a1e628ae11d9) (http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm)
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yeah, know about grinding the sprocket but shouldnt be too big of a deal. Seemed easier than going all over the place to track one down that would fit.
Got my new throttle housing on today and went for a ride, beutiful in the bay area.
Ben