The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: CaseyB475 on February 14, 2011, 09:45:01 PM
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Just got a 1979 R65. Some bumps and bruises, had been sitting for a while, but started up after some prodding and being on a battery tender at 12 degrees below freezing. Had it trailered to my house where it's warmer and not covered in snow, and it started up after a couple of chugs on the first try.
Test ride fine, pulled into parking lot, turned it off, paid the gentleman, and went to bed. 18 hours later, I turn the key (there is only on and off, right?), flipped the kill switch all the way up, hit the starter button..... nothing. No lights, nothing..... I assume this is because the bike sat for 8 months, and probably didnt see a battery tender until I called to ask about the bike.
Battery Plus sells a PC680, so I get that, install (it's now dark out). Turn key, flip kill switch all the way up, I see a dimly lit speedo, but nothing else, hit starter button..... and still nothing.
Am I missing something? Or jsut bad luck with batteries? Manual is missing, just have the Clymers. Key only has on or off position, right? Kill switch is off at the bottom, lights on in the middle, engine on at the top?
Thanks.
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The correct position for the kill switch is in the center position. Up or down is NO GO!
A good battery will make all of the difference, but you have a lot of work ahead of you before you take it out of the neighborhood, much less out of the county.
You said "not covered in snow" - was it sitting outside?
"Been sitting for a while" is never good. You should plan on doing some somewhat serious mechanic-time before thinking about riding.
An Odyssey PC680 is a great battery, if you have the money to spend on brand-names. You should spend some time looking through the most recent page or two of threads here.
Things to consider:
- slide the gearbox back and check the input splines for grease, or lack thereof. If dry, you will want to remove the gearbox from the bike to do a proper clean/lube.
- Remove the rear wheel and check those splines for condition (you want at least 1/2 or less of wear on the splines), and again, clean & lube.
- Replace the fuel line. Especially if it is the OEM cloth-braided type. It will rot on the inside and small pieces will mess with your carbs.
- Remove the valve covers and measure the valve clearances BEFORE adjusting them. Write these #s down in YOUR NEW LOG BOOK, where everything will be noted by date and mileage.
- Check the inside of the airbox for mice nests.
- Lift the back of the fuel tank and see if both rubber pads are in place - normally glued to the tank.
- EMPTY the fuel tank, and dispose of the gas properly. If it is not too old, dump it in your auto along with the 10+ gallons that are already there, for dilution.
- Remove the petcock and check that it has a screen over the inlet tubes, and that it is not getting clogged at the bottom with debris.
- Remove both float bowls from the carbs and make sure there is no "water blobs" at the bottom, in the gas. Also check the little hole in one corner of each bowl, to make sure it is clear. It is quite possible that the carbs will need a full rebuild.
- Drain the gearbox oil and see what color it is. Black = good, coffee w/cream = bad - if you are getting water in there, probably through the speedometer cable boot on the R-H side of the gearbox.
- Don't remove the front cover without disconnecting ALL GROUND WIRES FIRST. You can short out the diode board, frying a diode or two in the process.
- I would plan on replacing the ignition wires and caps. NGK are the best, IMO.
How's that for a start?
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And be careful of that fastener that holds the ground cable to the gearbox. That is a steel fastener going into aluminum threads. You can strip them if you are not careful. The same goes for ANY fastener going into the engine, gearbox or final drive castings. (and fork legs!)
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Oh, I didnt mean sitting that long. It's been ridden, but it's been on the market since last fall, and the prior owner didnt bother to re-register it since he was selling it. It's been in a garage the whole time, just a very cold one. The carbs and valves were done about 2 years ago. Fuel line last summer.
It needs some work, but was ridden almost daily up until about August.
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The valves should be checked every 3000 miles.
Did it come with receipt-backed history? Like the heads being rebuilt? If not, check them every 1,000 miles for valve recession. If they prove stable after a few checks at 1000, you can go back to the standard 3000 mile checks.
Broken valves are too common, heart-breaking, and expensive.
You need to put a voltmeter across the terminals while starting. If the voltage drops below 12v, you will have issues. Issues that a battery tender cannot solve.
edit: Did the PO drain all the gas in the tank & bowls before winter storage???
How does the lining on the inside of the tank look?
Is this your first airhead BMW? Do you wrench much? Have a picture of the bike?
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Yeah, first airhead. Wrench a bit on newer cars, bicycles, and a new KLX250. No, he didnt drain it, but the lining does look fine. I have some receipts but not all, since it's been through several owners.
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Can't tell what country you reside in, but if you are in North America, the ignition switch has three positions, the third position allows the tail light and running light, the small bulb in the headlight just below the main bulb .
The key will also come out in this position, leaving the lights on .
I've seen a few posts about the European bikes having a fourth position, it allows you to operate the bike with the headlight off, but the small running light still working .
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Yeah, sorry, US. I definitely had the switch in the wrong position when I hit the starter button, but I think I would've noticed the GEN or neutral lights come on as I flipped the switch around. Or does that usually take a minute to come on?
Thanks.
I'll post pics as soon as possible. It's a '79 R65 - champagne.
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Seemed like it was running fine until it spent a night off the battery tender, but if I am missing another possibility, let me know. My goal is just to get it moved out of the parking lot and into a friends garage or mechanic for a safety check. I want to do a full restoration at some point, but that will likely have to wait until I get my own garage in the summer.
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I would start with the simplest - remove & clean the battery contacts. Reassemble with a light amount of grease. I like dielectric grease for electrical, but any will work, even Vaseline.
Also, take a box cutter & cut the insulation on the positive cable, near the battery connection and peel it back, looking for white, powdery corrosion. you needn't go more than 1/2 to 1 inch up. If you have corrosion, replace the cable.
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Nope, I-D-TEN-T error......
...... apparently you have to fold the key or it's not turning all the way to the on position.
Now I can take my first official ride on it (test ride doesn't count) on my first airhead.
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Don't feel bad,I thought my first big bike(honda 350) was a 4 speed for the first two weeks.
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I am a process improvement expert, through aptitude and recruitment, not by choice...... we all have our moments though.
LOL
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Don't feel bad,I thought my first big bike(honda 350) was a 4 speed for the first two weeks.
That is one of the nice things I like about the airhead gearbox compared to the Japanese bikes (last one was the 1985-something GPZ550), you can tell if you are in top gear by pulling up on the shift lever. If it moves freely, you are in 5th! On the Japanese bikes, top gear is rock-solid, just like in between the lower gears.
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1 big concern of mine is my GF riding it and having to use the center stand. I was told that the brown side stand isnt a good idea for parking it, and oil will pool up on one side. Is that true? I can always help if it's parked for the night, but if she takes it to the store for an hour, I cant see her being able to muscle it onto the center stand.
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For short durations, you can put the bike on the side stand, leaving it on the side stand over night or for extended periods, not a real good idea .
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And definitely shut off the fuel!
I like to advise that you shut it off when approaching your destination, to ensure that the float-bowls are not full.
This advise is especially true when using the side stand regularly, which is not recommended, as Bob said.
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I'll chime in here - haven't heard of any BMWs leaking oil on their sidestands.
My question is when we park our R65's is it necessary to turn the fuel petcock off? If so, is there any good way to remember to turn it back on when it's time to go (as to not have the bike crap out at a critical moment)?
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There have been a few members here that didn't turn the fuel taps off and had a crankcase full of fuel a week or two later .
The carbs on these bikes have the notoriety to leak fuel past the float needle valves .
No sure way to remember to turn the fuel tap on, just becomes part of the routine .
I've seen a few riders attach 'REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT' streamers used in aviation for landing gear pins, pitot tube covers and flight control locks .
The first thing I do when I walk up to my R65, is to turn the fuel on, then proceed to put on jacket, helmet and gloves .
Been a while since I forgot to turn the fuel on .
The bikes don't leak oil on the side stand, the oil gets into the combustion chamber and smokes heavily on the first start up .
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Yep - fuel on, choke on, key on, push the starter button...
I guess it helps if you've been doing it for 30 years, or so.