The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: mimmo66 on July 26, 2010, 10:39:13 PM
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I wish it would be as easy to remove the rear tire as it is on the k bike.
What is your best method of removing the rear tire with the saddle bag mounts on?
I currently remove the front tire first, then tilt it forward and proceed.
Wish I could just do it in less steps! :-/
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That is how I do it.
I also let all the air out of the rear tire before I try to remove it.
Don't forget to tie your center stand cross-member to the front exhaust cross-over before tipping the bike forward. The stand could fold up on you!
And don't leave the bike tipped forward with a full tank of gas. (DAMHIK) ;)
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I was stumped the first time I tried a rear wheel removal. The riders handbook made it sound straightforward but it's not at all.
I remove the rear fender so the wheel can come straight out the back. It's just 4 nuts and the electrics unplug. I also need to let the air out too.
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With most 110/90x18 rear tires, mine just slides right out with a nudge on the bike to make it tip forward on the centerstand - or, at least it does when there is no pannier rack bolted on (might require unbolting the left side half). I imagine that if one has one of those "old man" ride-off centerstands you're basically stuck until you get a length of board to place under the centerstand to provide some extra height.
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This is good to know... I've got multiple projects ahead of me that I can tackle all at once. Replace rear tire (120/90x18), replace brake pads, lube splines, replace rear fender, and replace/rewire the rear light. I think I'm toing to have to remove the sidebags, too.
I've never replaced a motorcycle tire myself but am seriously thinking about trying it, not only to save money but to have the knowledge. Even buying tire levers (which I need anyway), tires, tubes, and wheel weights... I'm still probably cheaper than taking it to a shop.
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I wonder how hard it would be to put a hinge in the rear fender, so that it would fold up and out of the way. I've seen that on older bikes.
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I wonder how hard it would be to put a hinge in the rear fender, so that it would fold up and out of the way.I've seen that on older bikes.
Exactly why I have this picture in my library...
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pbase.com%2Ftomfarr%2Fimage%2F77535859.jpg&hash=204ffb362947e832165eb2c05049cd8a905c5421)
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Replace rear tire (120/90x18)
Does the 120/18 clear the swingarm OK? I have a rear 120/18 Macadam for the Dawg but haven't tried the fit yet.
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Replace rear tire (120/90x18)
Does the 120/18 clear the swingarm OK? I have a rear 120/18 Macadam for the Dawg but haven't tried the fit yet.
A 120-18 Metzeler Lasertec will clear, but it's a pain to get it in, can't be done without deflating the tire first .
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Replace rear tire (120/90x18)
Does the 120/18 clear the swingarm OK? I have a rear 120/18 Macadam for the Dawg but haven't tried the fit yet.
I don't know to be honest. Right now the rear tire is Kenda 270 4.50x18 and it barely clears the swingarm... and chewed the heck out of the rear fender. So I was hoping the 120 was a bit more narrow. Might go with a 110 then.
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I believe the 110/90-18 works out to very close to stock.
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I like the idea of the removing the rear mudguard much better than tilting the bike forward.
Will do some tryouts and see how it goes.
Domenico
San Jose, CA
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Strapping the centrestand to the cross-over (using one of the safety straps I have on all my pannier bags), then removing front wheel and tipping forward has always been the easiest way for me. This works just as well in the garage as on the side of the road.
Removing the rear mudguard and electrical connections seems potentialy messy and tricky on the side of the road.
Generally if using 120/90 x 18 tires you need the extra wide spacer sold by BMW that moves the wheel slightly out from the final drive.
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Is this spacer on the axle? If so I can machine one...
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Is this spacer on the axle? If so I can machine one...
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Justin,
I think the spacer, is the 'hat bushing', or a BMW calls it, a compression sleeve .
It is in the wheel bearing sleeve, spacer stackup .
Items 6 and 11 in the IPC reference .
I believe the outer bushing is longer than the inner bushing .
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0365&mospid=47853&btnr=36_0151&hg=36&fg=10
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So, I just need to machine a replacement for #6 that is longer by the amount of additional clearance I need and maybe make #11 the same amount shorter?
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That sounds like that would work .
The outer bushing that I have #11, is 12.97 mm or .511 inches in length .
RealOEM shows the inner bushing to be 9.2 mm or .362 inches in length .
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Bob, are yours offset for a wider tire?
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No, the one I just got, is to install on the rear wheel, that was missing it after the previous owner had the wheels white powder-coated, and didn't install when he reassembled it .
I'm just wondering, if you could just swap the bushings that are already there, it would give you .150 inches additional clearance .
If you do this, make sure you have enough threads sticking out for the axle nut .
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Copying from Bob Fleischer's web site after a Google
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/section5.htm
<<""Metric sized tires are what are generally installed. A 90/90 or even 100/90 on the front, and a 110/90 on the rear. In some instances SOME 120 will fit the rear; BUT, sometimes (pre-1981 for instance) one has to get the wider 10.7 mm spacer for the right side of the rear hub...BMW part number 36-31-2-301-737. Stock was 9.2 mm, and was 36-31-4-038-142. The spacers are VERY easy to install, and do NOT affect bearing preload. "">>
Looking at MAX BMW site, the spacer part number doesn't show up under R65 wheels but it does show up if you look at R100RS for 78 on
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51647&rnd=03192010
Justin, I don't think you need to reduce #11, the whole assembly just moves out slightly.
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There was a SI issued on tire clearance which suggests use of the 10.7mm spacer if necessary and also answers a question recently raised by bjamesw about how much offset is permissible. The maximum is 4mm which is a lot less than I had thought it might be.