The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Rob Valdez 79 R65 on March 31, 2010, 04:04:06 PM
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This time it is my clutch lever, on the transmission.
I just hooked it up to my handlebar control, and the lower arm rubs against the frame rail at full compress!
I've never noticed it do that before, and I doubt it really should.
This is the original '79 transmission.
I checked the most obvious thing - all of the engine spacers are there!
TIA
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I just checked my '81, and there is about 3/16th's inch gap between the arm and frame tube with the clutch lever pulled in all the way .
Possibility of the frame being 'tweaked' out of alignment a bit ?
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Possibility of the frame being 'tweaked' out of alignment a bit ?
That is my big fear.
I double-checked the steering head plates. They still look flat, even in the warm weather.
I suppose I will try Duane's string test, even though I don't understand what I am looking at. And I have done it before, with him and a bunch of others around!
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Yikes, I didn't think that your collision was bad enough for tweaking the main frame - the rear subframes on these bikes are another story.
Are you sure you've got the proper ~ 201mm (I think, can't remember well today) adjustment distance from the boss on the right lower engine case to the clutch lever arm?
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I don't suppose the arm itself could be bent. They look so fragile that I bet they would break first.
If it was me I would be hopefully successfully resisting the urge to grab a big crowbar.
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Is there any tolerance in the gearbox to crankcase fixings that could allow the gearbox to rotate slightly ? I'm trying to remember if the there are spigots to positively locate the gearbox or does it just rely on the 4 fixing bolts. Probably wouldn't account for 3/16" anyway but just a thought.
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Sounds like a silly suggestion, but you didn't get the piston/cup that goes against the throwout bearing the wrong way-round, did you? That would prevent the arm from going as far inward as it should.
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Sounds like a silly suggestion, but you didn't get the piston/cup that goes against the throwout bearing the wrong way-round, did you? That would prevent the arm from going as far inward as it should.
Sorry, no. I don't think this is an issue on a '79 transmission.
And I have ridden the bike probably 15 miles today. Once I adjusted the clutch, it is operating normally.
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Whew! At least you got a ride in today, however short. Good for you. Thank goodness the clutch is working normally.
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I came home with it hot and hooked it up to the ATF tubes and I got it to where it idles pretty well.
It sounds pretty hollow when I get on the gas, though. It may just be intake noise, I don't know. I do have one of the drilled clamshell air boxes. And those larger intake valves and the nikasil cylinders are making so much more power than I was used to, before! ( ;) )
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Rob, I've got a few more years on you so I'd bet the mod airbox and freshened engine is providing you with the hotrod sounds. [smiley=thumbup.gif]
Back in the day, I'd borrow the old man's 327 Impala and immediately yank the air filter. Mat the pedal and the '65 SS would howl like a, well, a freshened R65.
stay outta bike crowds, pal. Monte
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I don't suppose the arm itself could be bent. They look so fragile that I bet they would break first.
If it was me I would be hopefully successfully resisting the urge to grab a big crowbar.
Whatever you do - be very careful with the clutch arm. It's probably a strong forging, but the bosses on the rear trans cover are VERY fragile and will break with little provocation.
The PO had broken mine on the LS and repaired with JB Weld (fail). I just pulled the arm in to reinstall the cable and twisted it a little and SNAP!7 :(
Luckily, a welder was able to repair it, without removing the cover. :)
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I have a REALLY bent frame!
On the left side, I can align the string along both side of the rear tire and bring it forward.
On the right side, I cannot get the string to contact the front half of the rear tire as it is already making contact with both ends of the right side of the front tire.
On the left side, at the front tire, the string is 1" away from the sidewall.
(The ideal is for both gaps from the front tire to be equal.)
Apparently this is a test one performs before spending hundreds of dollars fixing up a money pit.
I'm divorced for a reason, you know.
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Any idea what your plan is going to be from here ?
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Continue with the tune-up, I guess. I have everyone so riled up over the gathering of the clans, I suppose I should wait to part it out until after that. But I want to start selling right away, as there is a cherry Kawasaki 250 Ninja up the road with only 500 miles on it for $2000.
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(The ideal is for both gaps from the front tire to be equal.)
That's what I have always thought and used for aligning wheels on chain driven bikes.
Do BMW though build in some small offset ? and there is also the swinging arm adjustment and the possibility of a different spacer for wider tires. OK maybe not 1" but how are these to be accounted for in a string test. The wheels have to be parallel with each other but not necessarily in a dead straight line. Is it possible your frame is not as bad as you think ?
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Before YOU get too bent, contact Tom Cutter, Bob Snowbum and/or a few other BMW gurus and get their take on stringing the chassis. Are you an ABC list member? Post the question and see what develops.
Monte
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Before YOU get too bent, contact Tom Cutter, Bob Snowbum and/or a few other BMW gurus and get their take on stringing the chassis. Are you an ABC list member? Post the question and see what develops.
Monte
They don't want to hear from another idiot that failed to keep his eyes on the road.
I wonder what I will do to fill the void not riding will create?
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Before YOU get too bent, contact Tom Cutter, Bob Snowbum and/or a few other BMW gurus and get their take on stringing the chassis. Are you an ABC list member? Post the question and see what develops.
Monte
They don't want to hear from another idiot that failed to keep his eyes on the road.
Yes, they can occasionally get into the talking down mode.
Might you contact your insurance rep and ask about hidden damage discoveries? This sort of issue happens all to often with autos. Just a thought...
BTW, you mentioned you'd been for a ride on the bike. Did it act strangely in any way? Track OK?
Monte
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Rob, check your PMs.
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Silly Monte, I don't carry comprehensive insurance on my bike! lol! I have paid for all of this crap myself.
No, the bike didn't act strange, but I haven't had it more than a few miles from home, and not over 45mph.
Since I tightened the steering head bearings, I went back out yesterday, but I couldn't keep the engine running after my "tuning" earlier.... ::)
I had planned to use today to work that out, until I measured the frame.
I'm not sure it is worth all this grief.
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Gee Rob, that is awful news about the frame.
IF you wanna come up here to visit we could check out this little '79 R65 that is running near Portland, Maine for $1900?
http://maine.craigslist.org/mcy/1643115357.html
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Well Rob, what is this string test all about? Graham thinks the wheels are not supposed to line up the way you're describing. Because of the drive shaft, the wheels are offset, so you couldn't get an equal alignment. He was always told the rear tire is offset from the front tire by ~1/2 inch.
Do you have a link to this string test you're using? (Maybe you've already posted it and I missed it.) :-/
Don't start parting this out yet, Rob!!!
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Well Rob, what is this string test all about? Graham thinks the wheels are not supposed to line up the way you're describing. Because of the drive shaft, the wheels are offset, so you couldn't get an equal alignment. He was always told the rear tire is offset from the front tire by ~1/2 inch.
Don't start parting this out yet, Rob!!!
Offset questionable.....
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Here you go, Aïda: http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/frame/index.htm
This test was performed on my bike at the Boxerworks rally a few years ago. Duane was there and was suitably impressed with the alignment on my bike.
I will try the test again, this week, but Thursday I am going to see a LS that was in a fire (someone showed it to me, here, I think.).
He wants $1200, but I would love to get it for only $800. I am afraid if I start there, we will end up at $1000.
So do I start at $600??? (I am NO GOOD at negotiations.)
I just hope the paint on the frame wasn't damaged in the fire. I suppose I would need to go through the bearings as they may have gotten hot enough to melt the grease.
It would be kind of cool to have LS wheels, though, and run tubeless!
I think I will build a work stand out of wood.
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Rob you are not allowed to leave this party......ever
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Did you get my PM about the used '79 frame on Ebay?
The price is right... :-/
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Well, I have seen frames really cheap on flea-bay and you already have everything else!
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re: the LS that was in a fire - I have my nephew going with me (he rides a GSXR750) as he has not only a PU truck, but vicious negotiation skills! In fact, we agreed he will just pretend he is the one buying the bike.
I am going to put 4 $100 bills in one of his pockets, and two more in his other. I will happily pay $500 for it, unless it is REALLY bad (I can't see Craigs List here at work), like the handgrips are melted off.
Looking at the picture, I can see the seat is now toast, but the scorching on the tank and front fender really doesn't look that bad. Up close & personal will reveal much more, though.
I think I would sooner tear my bike down to the frame, and have it sent out to be straightened, before I would buy an unknown off eBay, put it all together, and perhaps end up with the same as I have now.
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It would be fun to find an early 80s R80GS frame, wouldn't it?....
Now that I've thought of it, I want one.
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Oh Rob, I am so sorry to have to read about your frame concerns. I gotta agree that I'd rather move my good equipment from my 'known' bike than stake my chances on a fried LS. Either that or take up nhmaf's offer and take an excursion for another R65.
And, ditto on you going and getting another non bmw and never coming here again!!! Vee have vays to keep you here!!!
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O.K. - Final decision.
What with the fragile future of my job, I have decided to get the frame from the guy on Long Island, instead of the burnt LS here in town.
I am getting frame, title, subframe, swingarm and driveshaft for $175 +shipping.
I could have easily hurt my swingarm, as well, and I have been hearing noises that sound suspiciously like U-joint knocking, so it will be good to have a back-up there, too.
I guess I need to hunt down some scrap lumber to build a work stand out of.
Thanks everyone that suggested sources and for your support in general!
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The r65 frame and other parts w/title on Long Island seemed like a good deal to me. I've only had good experiences with buying stuff on IBMWR.org, so I think/hope that you'll get good condition stuff.
My fingers are crossed for you!
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This evening on my lunch hour, I am going to the bus station to pick up my new frame!
Included in the deal is a swingarm w/ driveshaft, and the subframe.
I don't know yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if the stands are still on the frame, as well.
Can't wait for lunch! :D
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Woohoo!
I hope that those items completely take care of any bent bits that you need to replace.. It will take a while to strip everything off the old frame - maybe you can get the new frame a fresh coat of paint to go with those beautifully painted tank and body pieces you showed in the other thread!
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I just finished stripping all the bubble wrap off the frame, in my garage!
It looks good, and I would love to have it painted.... but I may be too impatient for that.
Not to mention all the money I have sunk into this project already.
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Man oh man, I am happy for you Rob. I also envy you as being capable enough to know how to switch it all over!!! I'd have a time, I am sure!
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Seeing as you are on your third engine, and second frame, are you going to have the title changed to reflect this, or are you going to swap all the parts over, and not get concerned about it ?
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My two cents- Paint the frame now, while it is all apart, so you will never have to deal with it again! While giving it the proper time to dry and harden you can methodically prepare for the transplant surgery. I would suggest also considering padding and blue tape to protect that new paint during the build, since you are in effect doing a ground up restoration.
The extra time it took to get the bike on the road will be forgotten after the first round of compliments...
Steve
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I have already scuffed the new paint on the tank. Nothing that couldn't be buffed out, I am sure, but do I want this same level of agony over the frame, as well? :-/
No, I didn't buy the bike in the first place to look at, but to ride.
Ed Miller & Semper Gumby can both attest to this philosophy.
And yes, I will probably give up my old title... just to keep everything on the up-and-up.