The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Mike V on April 11, 2010, 01:54:56 PM
-
Need some help and direction here guys and gals. I apologize if this has been previously covered and excuse my ignorance, but this is the first time i've been in one of these bean cans. The bike is a 81 R65 (production 9/80) and from the fische it appears there are points in the bean can. Ugh, advance? Electronic advance? Anyway, I want to go through it and at least do an inspection/service and would appreciate any photos, tutorials, or some general knowkledge and guidelines before i go exploring. I would like to renew the appropriate parts since the bike has been idle for over 15 years and I'll be reassembling the engine in the next week or so for it's maiden post-restoration run.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=47851&btnr=12_0741&hg=12&fg=05
This looks fairly simple but I've said that before. VIN is 6385070.
-
Here's a link to one of our members tutorial on an ' electronic ignition bean can' overhaul .
http://www.bmwr65.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1262401521
For anyone with a contact breaker points type ignition, here's a link to disassembling that type .
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394966
You should have the electronic type ignition .
Just keep in mind, that none of the parts inside the can, except for the advance springs, are available, unless you have a 'donor' spare assembly around .
-
Bob,
Beautiful. And Darryl - great work as usual. I also found some help in the Wiki section. I forget to look there sometimes.
Anyone with first hand hints and advice...I'm all ears.
Thanks again Bob.
-
Monti, has rebuilt a few in the last year or so .
Here's a link from a member on the Boxerworks BMW site .
http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/replacing_the_hall_effect_sensor.htm
-
Love it. Thanks again Bob, gotta love this forum. Eh?
-
Here's a link, to build your own sensor tester .
http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/vane_switch_tester_circuit.htm
If you really want to see the engineering drawing for the sensor, here it is .
http://sccatalog.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/2av54.pdf
-
Bob,
Great info!
-
About the only good information I got out of the drawing, was the wires at the sensor, red, is 12 v dc supply, green wire is sensor output signal, and the black wire is ground .
-
Bob,
I have no reason think I'll need to replace the sensor. I don't expect the system needing anything except some cleaning and freshening up. But the links will come in very handy to archive and show me the way. Never dealt with the bean can before but when I get to it I'll post pictures and some information on my Photbucket link.
-
I haven't had mine opened either, I got a few sensors last year from Newark Electronics, I was contemplating a 'pre-emptive strike' and replace the sensor in the '81, due to it's coming up on 30 years old, 83,000 miles, and having 'lived' in the desert heat of Phoenix, for the last 17 years .
-
Never dealt with the bean can before
Maybe not quite as "simple" as the points set-up on a Type-247, but a BIG improvement in dependability, regardless of whether it is points or electronic trigger in the can.
And you are right - RealOEM does NOT show and exploded view of the electronic ignition canister.
-
My bikes manufacture date is 10/80 and has electronic, so suspect your will be the same.
Only problem i have had is the electrical connector is beginning to get fragile from age and heat and has started to fall apart a little more everytime I disconnect / reconnect. Haven't found replacement connector available anywhere, so be careful with this.
John
-
Only problem i have had is the electrical connector is beginning to get fragile from age and heat and has started to fall apart a little more everytime I disconnect / reconnect. Haven't found replacement connector available anywhere, so be careful with this.
I would be tempted, at that point, to replace the connector with a Molex style and use ample dielectric grease when putting it together. You can get them in various configurations, and they're "keyed" so you can't put them together wrong (assuming you built them right in the first place). Long before I ever saw an SAE connector, I was buying these and putting a little pigtail onto the batteries of all my bikes so I could quickly move my Battery Tender from bike to bike.
-
I would be tempted, at that point, to replace the connector with a Molex style and use ample dielectric grease when putting it together.
Was thinking about a new connector myself.
It would even make the rebuild a lot easier too rather than having to trim the wires on the new sensor only to them to the existing rather flimsy feeling wires.
The only thing remaining to work out is how to keep the cable in place so it doesn't become breakfast for the advance mechanism.
Probably just cut off the retaining plate from the old sensor and drill a hole for the new wires to come through.