The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Semper Gumby on January 09, 2010, 10:16:24 AM
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It has happened to me.
I went away on vacation after Christmas came back and flew a trip. And this morning its 18'F as the south is firmly in the grips of an algore inspired cold snap and I figure what the hey, let see if it starts.
So I push the bike onto my snow encrusted driveway and reach down to turn on the fuel.
Oh no.
The fuel tap has been on for almost two weeks. I never leave the fuel tap on! Something must have distraced me. So I cross my fingers and hit the starter and the bike does not even turn over. I cannot believe it. There is no fuel on the ground. Not a breath of wind in the air not a freakin' sound.
So I pull the plugs and the RH cylinder is full of fuel.
Now it turns over and and it looks like I'm drying out a RH cylinder today and possible changing the oil. Funny thing is the oil level looks fine and I can't smell gas on the dip stick. So perhaps I'm lucky in that I don't need to change the oil?
If it can happen to me, it can happen to anybody. :o
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If the oil level is where it should be, looks like you got 'lucky' .
Your call, on whether to replace it or not .
During WWII, it was a common practice, to add a measured amount of fuel into the crankcase, run the engine so it diluted the oil, so when the next day the engine was started, after being 'cold soaked' over night, it wouldn't have the extra drag on the starter due to thick oil .
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So I get the bike running and it is running just fine - sounds fine etc etc. So I'm lookin' the bike over and I turn to go inside and there is oil on my hand????
So I clean my hand off and wonder how there would be oil all over the LH grip. Sure enough its wet. So I look over the bike again under each cylinder and then the oil cooler...oh no. It's leaking.
The end to a perfect day.
I guess things happen for a reason.
So Ive got another cooler sitting on the bench but it doesn't have a thermostat in it so I need a thermostat. I think MAP cycle in Tampa has 'em. Oh well. :-/
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What make of cooler do you, have ?
Just curious about the thermostat at the cooler .
I've got the OEM BMW cooler installed, with no thermostat .
Kinda curious about your oil leak though, I think it was 'Oak' Okleshen, stated at one time in the BMW MOA magazine, that on a 'cold soaked' BMW bike, one that was left out overnight in sub 20F. temperatures, start up oil pressures could reach 160 psi .
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That might have been it. Lockhart 601.
Self induced?
Oi veh...I guess I need a bypass valve when the temps get cold to protect the cooler. Either that or swicth to one of these new fangled 5W50 oils in the winter time. (Oh no an ADOT)
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Nope the solution is to take off the oil cooler when I do my winter change over in October and put it back on in April. Unless I can switch to a full synthetic that flows more freely when its really cold like one of the Castrol Oils. I think they make a 10W50 or 5W50.
I hate to start an ADOT. The multi-viscosity oils have come a long way since our airheads were created.
Perhaps this is a question for Oak.
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Sounds likes a good idea, to run it by him, someone on Boxerworks made the posting about the oil pressure in cold temperatures supposedly made by him .
He's no stranger to cold weather, he lived about 10 miles from me when I lived in Chicago .
On your oil cooler installation, do you have 'banjo' fittings with hollow bolts, or are the oil lines threaded directly into the oil filter cap ?
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A WWII side bar relating to cold temps and thickened oil:
During the bitter cold Russian winter -that proved to be a fine Russian defense system- the German Luftwaffe "blacks" would drain aircraft engine oil immediately after the aircraft landed. The oil was kept in large vats over a flame heater and poured into the engine just before the next day's sortie. The heated oil permitted the engine to start rather than blowing out O-rings, seals and... oil coolers.
I think I'll put a 100W work light under the R65 before I go for a Sunday ride as we've been below freezing for several days.
Bill, the local ABC affiliate in Dallas has been showing video of your fair city. Everyone seems so friendly talking to reporters, wrecker drivers and LEO's after crashing into someone's car or mailbox. Southern hospitality even in the difficult moments.
Monte
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As far as heating up the block. I bought a heat magnet years back at a farm store. Just plug it into an ac outlet, stick it on the oil pan and vrrrooooom, starts every time ;)
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Brilliant! Where is the linky?
I didn't go out today. But yesterday I was out briefly. Shade proved to be the demise of many cars. There were a couple left as they were piled into each other at the bottom of an icy hill. Of course it was no trouble for me. I just ran my tires on the crunchy virgin bits on the side of the road. Plenty of traction there.
People down south get this kind of weather once every 10 or 15 years or so. Not enough time to learn how or where to drive in wintrery conditions.
I went looking for my old filter cover. It's gone. I keep everything and I can't find the old filter cover. I am truly grounded. I was hoping to ride the bike to work tomorrow. :-[
Ack ack ack...
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Dipstick heater? http://www.amazon.com/Kats-15200-Dipstick-Style-Heater/dp/B000BO74DG
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=pd_sim_auto_3
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Only problem with the magnetic type engine heaters, is that the entire R65 engine is aluminum, including the oil pan.
With the ridges cast into the pan, there's going to be minimal contact area to transfer heat .
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The dipstick looks like a good cheap practical solution
Lou
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I've used a 200 watt flood light under the oil pan, heated the pan, engine, and transmission .
Only really useful in a 'protected' environment, inside a garage or similar structure .
Keeping the battery warm also helps out, as the battery loses about half of it's power, when the temperature is 32 F. (0 C.)
One possible negative aspect to heating an engine, is that it is an invitation for rodents to 'nest' there .
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Thanks Rob. Looks like a 1 X 5 for the batery and a dipstick heater for the motor.
I'm still thinkin' about pulling the oil cooler for October through April.
Oh BTW here is Oak's reply.
"Hello Bill:
Welcome to Global Warning. The other theorists are now saying an ice age is on the way. Pick your choice !! I hope the oranges survive.
The lockhart cooler leak --probably couldn't take the pressure. Don't know if it hit 160 psi, but not out of the realm of possibility.
20W50 is definately the wrong oil and far too viscous for cold weather riding at 18F.. Your owners manual should advise you on 10W40 most likely for your needs. A 5W40 would be even safer. The spectro platinum syn looks like an OK choice. I wouldn't recommend it for high summer heat but it should work nicely for the cooler fall thru winter and cooler spring seasons and give good overall protection. You could likely split the year in half and use the suitable oil type for each half. "[/b]
Interesting. 8-)
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I don't know how much work would be involved for you to remove the cooler and lines, then just plug the threaded holes in the oil filter cap with plugs and crush washers .
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It WOULD be a SIMPLE swap out of bits BUT....I'm missing the @#$%^&! cover! (Forced to order one on Monday) or perhaps a ride over to Boxerworks is in order after it warms up a bit.
Ack ack ack.
<sigh> I'm driving the jeep to work (Oh the pain, the pain...)
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What about the cover you have right now, could you remove the oil lines, and use 2 metric bolts with crush washers to plug the threaded holes in the filter cap ?
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I have a broken engine sitting in my garage with bits like this [cover], Bill. Just say the word.
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Oh please. Could you mail me the three bolt hole oil filter cover???
2524 Hawthorn Drive
Atlanta, GA 30345-2040
As soon as you do the one I have hiding somewhere will turn up.
Thanks Rob (How much?)
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Will a non-oil filter head, work in an oil cooler application .
I think the center tube being longer, may interfere with the filter head .
I think there will be issues with the oil filter seals, completely different set ups between the two different style filter heads .
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That is correct Bob, the center tube is a different length.
Bill, I will attempt to extract the tube, as well. (they unscrew, I'm pretty sure).
Fire up the propane!
No charge, Bill. Happy to help.
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And a non-oil cooler oil filter as well .
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Whoa. The Lockhart oil cooler/filter set up I have uses the stock engine bits and filter. All I really need is the cover. The filter I use are the stock hinged and unhinged ones from BMW. It is a Lockhart conversion kit...not the BMW kit.
I really need only the cover.
(When mine shows back up I will return it to you.)
The way the Lockhart set up works is oil is forced by the pump around the outside of the filter through the filter then runs through the center to the Lockhart cover (I have to remove the rubber fitting on the outside of the filter to allow this to happen.) Then it goes outside the motor through the aft fitting through the oil cooler. The return line runs to the center of the cover through a tube that fits between the filter cover and the hole in the back of the filter canister. This tube slides into place and is springloaded against the filter cover. No modifications of the motor are required.
Pardon the pun but it is a cool set up. 8-)
When I remove my Lockhart bits and center tube and put the filter back with rubber ring on each end, the oil path will return to its normal flow path from outside of the filter throughthe filter to the center hole in the back of the canister to the motor. (phew)
Thanks Rob.
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I actually did this the other day... left the fuel on for a couple days. Walked by the bike and smelled fuel and looking closer noticed I left it on. Fuel had dripped down over the shift lever and the carb bowl was flooded. I removed the bowl, drained it, and left it.
Checked the oil this morning and everything seemed normal (not related... I just check before rides anyway as it leaks oil) and it fired right up this morning....
Guess I'll have to check the oil now for fuel...
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Don't cross the streams! (Ghostbusters)
Anyway, my tip re cold weather / weak battery is to boil the kettle and pour boiling water over the battery and leave it for a few minutes.
I did this many years ago and I can't even remember whether it was a bike or car but I know it worked.
Where previously it wouldn't crank fast enough to start after a few minutes warming up away it went.
Cheers from sunny Tasmania