The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: montmil on January 04, 2010, 01:23:06 PM
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I'm ready the draw back the transmission on the '81 R65 for a spline lube. Swing arm nuts have been loosened but not removed. Pivot pins still in place and the lower air box has been removed. All lower trans bolts have been loosened.
So... Is it necessary and/or recemmended to loosen the shock absorber bolts to allow aft movement of the swing arm?
I have also looped nylon rope over the seat and tied it off on each side of the swing arm to help keep down any surprises.
Seem to be doing more cleaning than wrenching ::) Thanks for the help.
Monte
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Do you have the clutch arm off of the rear of the transmission ?
I have always removed the swing arm/final drive from the bike, when working on the transmission .
I do believe, that the swing arm pivot bolts need to be removed, to allow enough clearance for the transmission to come out .
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Do you have the clutch arm off of the rear of the transmission ?
I have always removed the swing arm/final drive from the bike, when working on the transmission .
I do believe, that the swing arm pivot bolts need to be removed, to allow enough clearance for the transmission to come out .
I'm doing the ghetto-style spline lube; working with the trans just slightly back from the engine.
Have not yet removed the clutch arm. And, yes, the pivots must come out. But before freeing up the unit, I'd like to be prepared to not have any hinderance from the shocks.
Monte
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You could just loosen up the upper shock mount bolts, so it pivots, I use a milk crate to rest the final drive/swing arm assembly on .
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...I use a milk crate to rest the final drive/swing arm assembly on.
Remember when those milk crates were made of steel? Why, every self-respecting bike wrench turner and off-road racer -me included- had a couple of 'em to park the bike on. Plastic now. Hardly worth stealing 'em anymore. 8-)
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I thought lubing the input splines the lazy way was so you DIDN'T have to bother the swingarm pivots?
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I thought lubing the input splines the lazy way was so you DIDN'T have to bother the swingarm pivots?
You're right, Rob. But I have to replace a worn out U-joint boot, too. Also installing fresh rear brake shoes and new 10x2 O-rings on the brake cam shaft. Busy, busy... Monte
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Monte
You do have to remove the swinging arm pins. I don't remember having to slacken off the suspension units though. I found it helpful to use a rope to pull back on the rear wheel in order to maintain a gap of 1" or so between the gearbox and engine. Just enough to clean and lube the splines. I think I supported the gearbox with a trolley jack. Also disconnected the wires to the sensor under the gearbox.
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I would remove the bottom fasteners on the shocks, and remove the entire swingarm so you can work on the rear-end on the bench.
Then pull the transmission. It's ready to come out!
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You only have to free the right shock, I think.
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At the risk of sounding stupid....whats the best lubricant...copperslip or something like that? my haynes manual is snowed in at work so i may do mine before the iceage ends.
Lou
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Lou
Honda moly paste is the general recommendation but I used something you might just have ....moly gun grease. It had a high moly content and was very " stringy" which seemed like a good quality for not being rubbed off the splines.
This is not actually the stuff I have but sounds similar.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BISLEY-MOLY-GUN-GREASE-for-Airgun-Shotgun-Pistol-NEW_W0QQitemZ360132485936QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET?hash=item53d991a330
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I loosened the upper shock bolts (maybe even the lower ones slightly?) so that the swingarm would smoothly/easily swing to the back after pulling the pivot pins. You did disconnect the rear brake lever, too ?
It is quite easy to slide it all plenty far back to remove the transmission this way without any fuss - though I do remove the clutch arm at the back for the transmission before pulling the transmission out.
If you are replacing the U-joint, then it may be easiest to actually pull the swingarm off so you can work on it on the benchtop as Rob suggests
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Lou
Honda moly paste is the general recommendation but I used something you might just have ....moly gun grease. It had a high moly content and was very " stringy" which seemed like a good quality for not being rubbed off the splines.
This is not actually the stuff I have but sounds similar.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BISLEY-MOLY-GUN-GREASE-for-Airgun-Shotgun-Pistol-NEW_W0QQitemZ360132485936QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET?hash=item53d991a330
Thanks Barry aahh Bisley the ancesrtal home of shooters dont get em going nuf said.
Lou
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That grease may work - but it sure seems pricey - 3 pounds 50 for only 50cc ? Granted, one doesn't use alot on a firearm, but still this seems very pricey stuff to me for motorcycle/auto usage.
One concern though is the temperature rating of this Bisley grease - most people use a grease with a "drop point" of > 450 F and a very sticky grease is generally needed to achieve this. I don't know if a grease that is intended not to bind up the delicate balance of a revolver pawl will withstand sustained exposure to the harsh environs of the airhead clutch bay.
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BMW has a grease/lubricant specifically for transmission input splines, it's Microlube GL 261 .
BMW wants about $18US for a small tube of it, I think it's about 10ml worth of material .
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Two recent -as in yesterday- small setbacks have slowed progress. Plus, it's gotten colder than a well digger's belt buckle around here. Even the KeroSun shop heater is having trouble keeping up.
I was confident that my large selection of metric O-rings would contain the size I needed for the rear brake cam shaft. Wrong. A Monday morning call to John at Bench Mark Works in Sturgis -the good one... in Mississippi- got a handful on my way. http://www.benchmarkworks.com/ BTW, the O-rings are 10 x 2 mm if you'd like to score a couple for future use.
Second issue was my modified Lowe's 27mm socket. I had machined the face of the socket so that it would fully grip the swing arm nut. Checked it on the right side of the R65 and we're good to go. Well, I loosened the left side OK but I have concerns about it's grip; I had previously read about BMW's variances in the machined 'well" that houses the nut. Oh, Snap! Joe's Tools http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm up Illinois way is sending me one of their turned down wall and face sockets.
At any rate, I'm ready to do the spline lube. Then, I'll need to refit the rear wheel, with the new brakes shoes and O-rings- so I can hold the driveshaft while I remove the four U-joint bolts. Then, again remove the swing arm pivots and again pull back the swing arm so I can replace the busted boot.
This business just reinforces my decision to own two R65's. Work to Ride to Work to Ride. Whatever.
Watching the mailbox... impatiently. :DMonte
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Did you ever think of heading to your local NAPA auto parts store to see if they had any o-rings ?
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Did you ever think of heading to your local NAPA auto parts store to see if they had any o-rings ?
I love NAPA. I did check. Unfortunately, struck out. Monte
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They've saved me from waiting a week or two, for some common o-rings and the like on the bikes, and cages as well !!
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They've saved me from waiting a week or two...
On Monday afternoon, I spoke with John at Bench Mark Works in Sturgis, Mississippi. They had the correct O-rings and felt washers. I ordered extras of both. Bits arrived via USPS on Thursday. Fast service from a remarkable independent airhead shop.
Monte