The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Adamastor on October 28, 2009, 01:51:55 PM
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Hi there!
I am having some trouble with fouled plugs. I am currently cleaning my carbs once again and just figured out the idle jet is a 45. Isnt this supposed to be a 40?
This would explain my overly rich situation...
My carb is a 64/32/347...
Sergio
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Here's what the 64-32-347/348 carbs had from the factory .
Main jet : 138, Needle jet : 2.64, Jet needle : 251, Atomizer : 591, Idle jet : 45 .
The needle clip position is 3, that's third from the top .
I would check the enrichening circuit of the carbs, that's part that has the other cable going to it .
There are four small diameter holes in the rotary disc, make sure they are open .
Also make sure the cables are correctly adjusted for the 'choke' or enrichment, and that the springs bring the arm up against the cast in stop of the cover plate .
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According to Real Oem its a 45 on my 1980 the 40 will be for the R45 presumably.
Lou
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The carbs on my '81 R65 (64-32-325/326) have #40 idle jets .
I wonder why the different combinations of jets and needles, for the same engine .
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Yes, everything is like it should with the "choke" component...
Before I changed my R65 cylinder the left side always had been fouling plugs, the right side is a bit on the rich side, but ok i guess.
I assumed this would happen because of the lower compression on that cylinder. Now that I have switched both cylinder and piston and have new rings I thought that this thing would end. Wrong, it didnt..
The mixture screw is all the way in, (higher revs there) and still it is overly rich at idle.. what else should I look for? A new carb? I cleaned this carb so many times you wouldn't believe.. I even bought a new mixture screw because I though the top could be too round because of too much use...
I can get the bike on a very healthy and steady idle and she drives really good (although it pops a bit on overrun (decelerating with throttle all backed up)).
I switched idle jet from one carb to the other, and the problem remained on the left side.
I used carb cleaner on all holes, but... at idle can anyone tell me what is going on? Where does the air come from? If I spray carb cleaner throught the idle jet hole I can see it appear on the center of the carb, but turning th idle mixture screw in or out doesn't seem to affect. Is it supposed to affect this? Or does the mixture screw command another way to let some more fuel go in? I am a bit lost... :|
Sergio
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Can you tell us the type of plug you are using? Possibly you have a plug with a cooler heat range. Also note that on the "chokes" the rotary discs are left and right handed. Sounds like you are confident these didn't get mixed, but just a thought.
Also, can we assume the timing is spot on?
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The carbs on my '81 R65 (64-32-325/326) have #40 idle jets .
I wonder why the different combinations of jets and needles, for the same engine .
So some of them use #40 jets? Can you tell me what do the numbers on the carb say? (64 - 32 - 325) I guess 32 is 32mm, but the others I have no clue...
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Can you tell us the type of plug you are using? Possibly you have a plug with a cooler heat range. Also note that on the "chokes" the rotary discs are left and right handed. Sounds like you are confident these didn't get mixed, but just a thought.
Also, can we assume the timing is spot on?
I should receive this week a strobe light to check out timing, so that is still an unknown subject, I used NGK BP7ES since I bought it, today I switched to BP6ES to see if it would behave better, but after only 35 km it is already getting dark... BP5ES might be asking for trouble?
I just rechecked the choke rotary disc, and on the off position the holes on one side don't align with the the holes on the other side, so it really is off, right?
Sergio
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Some other details I remembered:
- rings are new, so maybe some more oil might be coming to the combustion chamber, right? This doesnt however justify that I have to put the mixture screw all the way in for higher revs at idle..
- I can start her at cold with no choke, just a bit of throttle (like we all do with a hot engine)
- Floats are ok, and float needles too and they shut/open when floats are parallel to the carb side
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Sergio, let's ask the Illuminati if someone has a photo of the rotary disc in situ as they should be installed. That could be a contributing factor. I'd stay away from the B5ES plug. And really you need to confirm the timing is correct before making wholesale carb adjustments. Not to say adjustments aren't needed, but it all begins with the correct timing.
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the correct timing.
Yep, that's correct, but assuming the right side is more or less ok and that the mixture screw is where it should be, even without checking timing I would guess there's some other problem.. :|
A bad choke disc position would be really good (easy to fix). But if choke was off would the engine still run well (of idle)?
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According to Real Oem its a 45 on my 1980 the 40 will be for the R45 presumably.
Lou
Suprisingly the R45 uses a a 45 pilot also although the pilot mixture screw maybe is turned further in than on an R65.
Sergio
The fact that you can turn the idle mixture screw all the way in would suggest there is a leak somewhere as this would normally stall the engine. Are the O rings on the idle jet and idle mixture screw sealing properly.
The dot on the enricher shaft should point towards the operating arm and there is an L for left carb or an R for right carb stamped on the inside of the shaft. (http://) (http://)
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Some good images here
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/carb_rebuild/index.html
Lou
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I used carb cleaner on all holes, but... at idle can anyone tell me what is going on? Where does the air come from? If I spray carb cleaner throught the idle jet hole I can see it appear on the center of the carb, but turning th idle mixture screw in or out doesn't seem to affect. Is it supposed to affect this? Or does the mixture screw command another way to let some more fuel go in?
You should expect this even with the idle mixture screw all the way in because there is a another transfer port not controlled by the idle mixture screw. The idle port and transfer port are tiny holes almost directly under the butterfly. Is it possible they have been enlarged.(http://)
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According to Real Oem its a 45 on my 1980 the 40 will be for the R45 presumably.
Lou
The fact that you can turn the idle mixture screw all the way in would suggest there is a leak somewhere as this would normally stall the engine. Are the O rings on the idle jet and idle mixture screw sealing properly.
The O-rings are new and were bought from motobins, they do seem to fit a bit loose, but they are the same on both sides. Should i try to put grease in there to see if anything changes?
Sergio
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I used carb cleaner on all holes, but... at idle can anyone tell me what is going on? Where does the air come from? If I spray carb cleaner throught the idle jet hole I can see it appear on the center of the carb, but turning th idle mixture screw in or out doesn't seem to affect. Is it supposed to affect this? Or does the mixture screw command another way to let some more fuel go in?
You should expect this even with the idle mixture screw all the way in because there is a another transfer port not controlled by the idle mixture screw. The idle port and transfer port are tiny holes almost directly under the butterfly. Is it possible they have been enlarged.(http://)
Very good schematic drawing, Barry, I really wanted to understand how does the circuit work. Things would be much easier if instead of too much fuel, I was getting too little. I will try to block the "transfer ports" and see if the mixture screw blocks or not the fuel passage. If I see no difference in "fuel" flow it wont be working like it should..
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Just remembered one other thing.. can this be exhaust related? If the left side muffler is clogged and the right one not, could this happen?
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It's normal to put a little silicon grease on the O rings to ease fitting but I doubt it would help sealing much and as you say it should be the same for both carbs.
I wouldn't have thought it was exhaust related as a partial blockage of one exhaust would have little effect at low gas flow rates when the carb is operating on the idle circuits.
Going back to your idle mixture screws. Is it just the left side that is screwed all the way in.
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Yes, the other one is about one turn out. I done that with the normal tuning process, turn the screw all the way in and back out slowly until the revs stop climbing and then back up a bit.
Sergio
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OK that confirms a fault with the left carb only. What else is there to check ?
Is the butterfly in the right way up (if you or a PO have taken it out) and centered in the venturi. Hold the carb up to the light to check. There should be no light or at least an even ring of light visible around the edge with the throttle fully closed.
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Okay, once again Barry beat me to it, but I too would check carefully that the butterflys are sealing. Even if they are the right way around and up one may not be sealing as well as the other. I had this problem on my bike and I could not get it to idle slowly when warm.
I had to loosen the tiny screws that lock the butterfly to the shaft, put some pressure on the lever to force the butterfy closed and tap the butterfly with the back of a screwdriver to jiggle it totally shut. keep the pressure on while nipping up the screws.
After getting both butterfys sealing almost light tight I was able to get the carbs balanced beautifully and the idle down to where it should be.
Before this I didn't need the choke either which is a sign that something is not right.
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hmmm This is an interesting point... I have the carb back on the bike, but I seem to remember, that the butterfly was not completely seated (but just a tiny tiny bit open). I thought this was because of the idle stop screw setting, but you tell me that it is supposed to be completely closed at idle?
This morning I went for a small ride along the river on countryside roads, the BP6ES is holding much better than the BP7ES, but still is getting darker. I took it out to look and it was darker on one side than the other. And a bit oily. Is this another bad sign? Perfectly normal on a break-in in situation?
Regards
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Depends on whether the idle stop screw is backed right off in which case it should be completely closed and as Bruce said "almost light tight". What your really checking for is that it's centered and will close as far as the idle stop screw wants it to go. Very little air is needed at idle so the butterfly needs to be hardly open at all maybe 3/4 of a turn on the idle stop screw.
Just a thought on the plug being a bit oily. You might be getting excessive oil into the carb via the engine breather. The breather should be piped to both carb inlets and shouldn't favour one more than the other but I've a feeling that can happen if the hoses are not correctly positioned in the centre of the intake tract. Also the breather could be faulty.
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I will check both these things tonight... maybe I should block the left side breather vent... ;)
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I used carb cleaner on all holes, but... at idle can anyone tell me what is going on? Where does the air come from? If I spray carb cleaner throught the idle jet hole I can see it appear on the center of the carb, but turning th idle mixture screw in or out doesn't seem to affect. Is it supposed to affect this? Or does the mixture screw command another way to let some more fuel go in?
You should expect this even with the idle mixture screw all the way in because there is a another transfer port not controlled by the idle mixture screw. The idle port and transfer port are tiny holes almost directly under the butterfly. Is it possible they have been enlarged.(http://)
Barry will confirm, but the carb cutaway view supplied is not a Bing but the operational systems are very similar. Monte
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Yes Monte is correct [smiley=thumbsup.gif] It was not actually a Bing CV carb. It's a fairly accurate schematic of how a Bing CV work though and the best diagram I can find to illustrate the idle transfer ports.
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I have news, some of them good, others not so good:
-> Yesterday at night I re-centered the buttefly, but it wasn't that bad.. mostly centered.
-> Also checked the engine breather tubes, and both seem equaly oiled, so engine has been breathing through them... if too much, I cant really know...
I remembered I have been using a 20w40 automotive oil, maybe it is too light and I should change to 20w50 since the engine is drinking too much oil.. (new rings should justify some of this)
Since I checked both these things at night I could not test them...
Today morning I received two orders I had made, the timing light and a new front light and instruments bracket (I had the bracket for the RT model and it looked really weird).
Engine was not completely hot, but holding idle, I tested the timing light. I didn't manage to see a focused image.
Rotating the bean can I could see the timing marks tab appear or disappear from the hole (and also increase or decrease idle speed), but was not able to fine tune it because I could not read it well.
Is this supposed to be like this? Or does this mean I also need to change the chain? :( The image should be really sharp?
The timing light is an old style "in-line" timing light.
Bummed because of that timing issue, I decided to change the light bracket, but was not able to finish the job before coming to work...
Oh well... :-/
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Why couldn't you read it? You should be able to find your timing mark by bumping the motor over with the rear tire. Then you can smear some white paint (whiteout works) over it and wipe off the excess, leaving the white only in the indention of the mark. That makes it much easier to see. It stays white for a long time.
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Hmmm I might try to paint them a bit, but on a normal engine are they perfectly readable or a bit "shaky"?
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There are easier timing marks to read. Ours are a liitle deeper in the hole because of the smaller flywheel/clutch carrier. A spot of white paint is definitely needed and a darkened garage helps.
Having said that the timing marks should not be jumping around much at all. I always prefer to do a static check first to see if there is any difference from one cylinder to the other. You can only do that on points models though.
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The timing marks are best seen with a bright timing light and a darkened garage - they should be pretty stable too - otherwise there may possibly be a worn timing chain/gear issue. All these bikes will puff a bit of oil out, but if the valve guides or piston rings aren't sealing well it can become significantly worse. As you had tired rings in that cylinder to start with, that could certainly have puffed oil up into the airbox, and if the new rings aren't seating yet, it could also contribute more oil getting down into the carbs. I'd take off the airfilter and clean out the bottom of the airbox - you might find a surprising amount of oil in there. Clean that out first so you know where you're starting from.
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If the timing marks "stutter" when hit with the timing light, the timing chain is quite likely worn out. This info has been discussed on Snowbum's site and a couple other individual's BMW web sites.
The timing marks should be clear and "frozen" in position by the bulb's flash. I confirmed this on my '81 prior to the timing chain and related bits being replaced.
Monte
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If the timing marks "stutter" when hit with the timing light, the timing chain is quite likely worn out. This info has been discussed on Snowbum's site and a couple other individual's BMW web sites.
The timing marks should be clear and "frozen" in position by the bulb's flash. I confirmed this on my '81 prior to the timing chain and related bits being replaced.
Monte
That's what I am afraid of... this R65 looked great, but it seems almost everything needs some work.
Anyway, tomorrow I will try to paint a white line and try to see it in focus. If I cant, I will have to probably replace the chain.... It seems the work on this bike never ends...
Q: With a worn chain and/or sprockets should I be able to idle and run well? Apart from the left side plug fouling, she drives well and can sustain a very good stable idle at about 1.100rpm.
Q: Can the double image be a fault on the bean can? (advance mechanism stuck or something like that...)
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If the timing marks "stutter" when hit with the timing light, the timing chain is quite likely worn out. This info has been discussed on Snowbum's site and a couple other individual's BMW web sites.
The timing marks should be clear and "frozen" in position by the bulb's flash. I confirmed this on my '81 prior to the timing chain and related bits being replaced.
Monte
...I will try to paint a white line and try to see it in focus.
Q: With a worn chain and/or sprockets should I be able to idle and run well?...
Q: Can the double image be a fault on the bean can? (advance mechanism stuck or something like that...)
Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip here in USA) to clean off any oil or greasy stuff on the stamped timing marks. Dab white paint on and into the stamped letters, wait a moment and then wipe off the excess leaving the white paint down in the stampings. Small fingers help ;)
Q#1: Often, yes. But eventually, you'll begin heading very harsh "bones" rattling.
Q#2: Not really likely.
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Hi there! I am back from the garage... I spent most the time finishing the light / instruments bracket exchange. Now it looks like a R65 not a weird franken-R65 (It had the RT front light bracket).
I had forgotten where some electric wires did connect to (no photos... I should never forget to use the camera before disassembly) and also had to open the brake system to pass a cable, etc etc etc
I also fixed the clutch switch... I was not able to start the bike in gear, now I can :)
After spending all this time I only got the chance to paint the slow and fast marks on the flywheel to check it with the light gun again.
This seems really strange, but I did manage to see the mark, I managed to align it (it is a bit blured) at idle, but with the bean can almost on the maximum counter-clockwise position.
The next weird thing I noticed, was that as I acelerated from what I have read on the web, It was supposed to change from one mark to the other, right? I saw no change.
Looks like my bean can needs some work, right?
- From the above could it be that the advancing system is not working?
- If so it could still be possible to ride the bike reasonably well (like I have been doing)?
- Could this justify why I only see the mark with the bean can almost fully counter-clockwise? (could not be certain about what mark I was looking at, since both marks were painted white, and the image is too fuzzy to read the letters)
My back is aching me, but these doubts harm me even more eheh...
Once again thank you all for the advices and general help :)
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Moving the bean can to adjust the timing requires a clockwise rotation of the can to retard the timing and a counter-clockwise rotation to advance the timing. The rotation is determined while looking straight on at the can from the front of the bike.
Riding the bike with a retarded ignition will not hurt a thing... nothing at all. You will perhaps notice less performance in the higher rpm range. No biggie. This is far better than having the ignition too far advanced and risk detonation and engine damage.
Appears you are getting the bike in good condition what with all the small, frustrating issues being handled. People will be calling on you for assistance before much longer!
If the timing marks fail to move to the advance mark, then yes, perhaps the advance mechanism may need attention. It is a completely mechanical system composed of bob weights and small springs. As rpms increase, the weights swing outward due to centrifugal forces. Small nylon "feet" should slide across a metal plate and return to a retard position as rpms decrease.
Believe the inspection, cleaning and lube technique has been discussed... here on this thread?
Monte
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If the timing marks fail to move to the advance mark, then yes, perhaps the advance mechanism may need attention. It is a completely mechanical system composed of bob weights and small springs. As rpms increase, the weights swing outward due to centrifugal forces. Small nylon "feet" should slide across a metal plate and return to a retard position as rpms decrease.
Believe the inspection, cleaning and lube technique has been discussed... here on this thread?
Monte
Just took off the bean can, looking through the inspection windows, I noticed that what was supposed to move is not moving. I need to use a screwdriver to make it move and it makes quite a bit of resistance. It also looks a bit rusty inside...
This needs to be cleaned and lubed...
the two top bolts head are not very good.. lets hope I can take them off with no stress...
I guess when I finish the work on my R65 I will know a bit of everything on it... since everything looks like it needs some work.
This is a former police force bike, and I am starting to believe their mechanics are not that good. I am amazed I still have splines... ehe (not everything has to be bad)
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Do not remove the two machine screws holding the round cover plate to the bean can body until you read and understand the following article. There is nothing under the cap that you can service without further disassembly of the bean can. I urge extreme caution as other than the Hall sensor, there are no can replacement parts available.
http://maniac.deathstar.org/%7Eflash/ig_trig.html
Also open the link to the photos that accompany the article.
The bob weights and the shaft might be loosened with a heavy dose of PB Blaster, WD40 or similar. Drain out the excess after a good soaking. The advance mechanicals should rotate when you turn the drive dog on the cam end of the unit.
Danger, Will Robinson, Danger.
Old American TV show "Lost in Space" ;)
Monte
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Monte, I had already been looking at that article and some others. The interior of my bean can was a bit deceiving, lots of rust and almost every screw was very hard to un-screw. Some of the contact plastic parts are worn, and the weights didn't move because their pivots (nylon + metal) were rusty/dirty. The springs look ok, but maybe they are relaxed... I don't know if when I found them they were stuck open or closed...
I started taking photos but forgot to continue with them as the process got more absorbing...
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg402.imageshack.us%2Fimg402%2F6550%2Figp9883.jpg&hash=17224ba8590eafbd6872bf7d9e05313346b2cec3)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg255.imageshack.us%2Fimg255%2F4013%2Figp9885.jpg&hash=33f33d9e8df83595a5984eb4baa9f9aa89d3c5b6)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg682.imageshack.us%2Fimg682%2F8350%2Figp9888.jpg&hash=f6b1e50e49da547eac5b9405d8cecda81cbb5c43)
Tomorrow morning I will test it on the bike, hopefully it will work much better than it was before (I had no advancing system).. but if I find a used bean can with a good price somewhere, I rather buy it...
One different question: Can I test if my chain is worn by rotating the engine by hand and looking at the shaft rotation (without the bean can)? Turning one side and them to the other and seeing if there is a lag and how many mm of lag it is?
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(lots of grease on my keyboard... doing mechanics by the computer is way cool lol) [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]
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That one is definitely a corroded can of beans! Fingers crossed for you that a good cleaning will set it right - just make sure that it is fairly well dried out before you assemble and fire up the bike.
USed bean cans do come up for sale from time to time - just watch that things don't get ridiculous on the price. I bought a used & functioning one for about $65, but sometimes (on ebay anyhow) things get out of control and people go berserk. There is almost always someone parting out an airhead on ebay or IBMWR websites.
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The bean can is "on bike" and now I have advance! :)
It took me ages to get the springs back into place because I didn't disassemble all the bean can. The pivot pin in the back was really hard to remove, so I opted to clean from above. The only down side was that I had to re-attach the springs by the small window of the can.
I am used to fix old film cameras, so patience and perseverance is something I have been learning to have ehehhe ::)
Done a very small test ride, and have just decided I will take it to work today.. I need to get those rings fully broken-in. Will try to know if there is any difference on the primary topic of this thread....
This bike has so many issues, that I jump from a problem to another and sometimes topics get out of topic... sorry for that and thanks for all the support :)
Sergio
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Looks like your on top of it now Sergio. I've only ever dismantled a points type bean can and I found that back plate was crimped in place and had to be rotated to a certain position before it could be removed. It was a real struggle.
Hope it works ok for you today.
Danger, Will Robinson, Danger.
Old American TV show "Lost in Space"
I remember that show Monte it would be a good sound bite to play just before delving into something you shouldn't
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I managed to arrive well at work, the bike seems to be running well, but I still have to see if my left plug is still fouling (the problem that started this thread).
I will go for a little ride tomorrow morning and try to see if now the mixture screw does any effect or not..
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You da man, Adamastor [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Gotta give you big props, amigo. In your situation, I may have already performed a Viking funeral for the bike. Good job.
Keep us posted. The sparkle plug issue may go away now the the beaner can is doing the right thing. I'd recommend you recheck the timing and see if your marks are steady. If they are, stop and enjoy an adult beverage... you just saved yourself a chore.
If you do ever replace the timing chain, contact Motobins. They offer a full replacement "kit" of timing chain bits you may not know you need!
Monte
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Hi there,
done some miles since I repaired the bean can, but unfortunately my plug keeps wet:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg233.imageshack.us%2Fimg233%2F9787%2Figp9892i.jpg&hash=19fbe71b1af22702e474112bd9e3d075255210ef)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg188.imageshack.us%2Fimg188%2F9241%2Figp9895.jpg&hash=9acd03e995d2622b76babb810bc1d0c82730bf3e)
This plug only has about 50km (30 miles) on it, and is quite wet. I have always been worried about the carb, because the mixture screw acts like the mixture is too rich (and it might be), but looking at this plug maybe my main problem might be too much oil.
I just blocked the oil from the crankcase breather to the left carb to see if that helps.
If not, could this happen because of new rings or do I need to change my valve guides? There is also quite a bit of oil consumption, but that also happened before the new rings.
Meanwhile, I saw a NOS left Bing carburettor with a good price on ebay, and won that auction. It might arrive next week and help me eliminate the carb issues from the equation.
About the timing: the image is not very clear, so I must assume the chain also needs to get replaced. I will however leave that for some later because first things first... (and there's always something more to look at)
Any helpful ideas are very welcome, and I ll keep you guys posted on my airhead mechanical adventures...
Sergio
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Have you got you float height set correctly?
Too much fuel in the bowl and it will find its way into the carb whether you want it or not.
Steve H
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Looks like the chokes are on?
Either that or the fuelshutoff needles are not working?
Or the floats are not floating any more. Take out the floats and put them in a glass of gas and see if they still float. Probably not it though if there is not fuel dripping out the bottom of the float bowl... :P
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The "old hands" say that the engine oil level should be maintained mid-way up the dip stick marks. Not filled to the top mark. Can't recall who "they" are but they did say too much oil in the crankcase may cause the odd problem now and then.
Seriously, I'd be suspect of the carb on the wet plug side.
Monte
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I am thinking now that if your timing chain tensioner - which is basically a plastic block that can wear out - is no longer working well it might also cause enough slack in the chain to cause the timing to appear a little bit jittery?
Usually (but not always) the tensioner makes some horrible sounds if it is worn out.
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Usually (but not always) the tensioner makes some horrible sounds if it is worn out.
At idle I hear some noise from the front of the noise, but it is not horrible, and could simply be the noise of the chain movement agaisnt the tensioner.
I will buy the new chain kit from motobins sooner or later, because I really dont trust the PO maintenance (from what I have seen on other items on the bike).
After that, maybe I could buy new valves and have the heads reconditioned...
That would make the bike fully dependable and ready for lots of km, right? I use this R65 on daily basis...
About the other tips:
- I will buy new carb needles the next order I make to motobins, but never had fuel dripping from the carb bowl
- I only filled oil to max the first time I got the bike, now I fill her to 1/2 or maybe 3/4... never more than that and usually only 1/2.
The weather is not very good, but I plan to do a small journey today to speed up the new rings break in. I have only new rings on the left side... should I have changed the right side too? Compression is/was great (145psi) on that side so I thought "dont fix it if it aint broken"...
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... I have only new rings on the left side... should I have changed the right side too? Compression is/was great (145psi) on that side so I thought "dont fix it if it aint broken"...
"dont fix it if it aint broken" ... often, good words to live by!
I would not think the engine will be angry with you for changing piston rings on one side only. With compression readings now close to identical, your engine is feeling good. Ride on.
It's the carbs. It's the carbs. It's the carbs... Your mantra for the month ;)
Monte
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Just came back from a very nice (yet very cool weather) ride on twisty country side roads... about 220km (140 miles) ridden and it all went well... ;)
At about half the trip I stopped to check the sparkplugs and oil level. I thought I would, as usual, find a left spark plug almost fouled, but.... :D No!
The ceramic was white, and the metal border gray/black.. on both plugs!
The oil consumption is still high, It consumed about 200cc on 140 miles... :(
This ride was mostly made between 3000 to 4500 rpms most of the time, and not nursing the throttle (snowbums says you should not nurse it on ring break-in or break-in will never finish). (I'll post some photos later)
I am crossing fingers that all is ok now, but would also like to know what was wrong. What have I done lately?
. re-centered butterfly (was not that bad before adjusting)
. re-checked valve-gaps
. "refurbished" the bean can (now it has advance)
. blocked oil from engine breather to left carb. It is directed only do right side carb...
What do ya think of all this? :)
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What do ya think of all this? :)
Ya can't argue with success [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
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What do ya think of all this? Smiley
Perhaps a combination of blocking the engine breather to the left carb and the rings starting to bed in a little. Keeping the revs up must have helped too.
Hope it continues to improve for you.