The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: wxp on September 26, 2009, 02:53:35 PM
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Hey,
I'm having headlight switch problems..Anyone know how to get the switch apart w/out messing it up where you can't get it back together..Mine will only work by pushing the switch all the way down past its normal hi-beam position & holding it there. I'd like to take the switch apart & clean the contacts good but can't quite make out how to take it apart w/out forcing something that I don't think I want to force..
Thanks
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Most likely, cleaning will not solve this problem .
I'm on my second replacement switch, and the usual failure is the plastic bits start to crumble with age .
There are no individual replacement parts available for the switch,you need to get a replacement .
The last time I had to replace it, I just removed the few screws the old switch had visible, and it came apart quite readily .
I just read your 5 last posts, and this headlight problem was mentioned then .
Does the switch feel alright in the low and high beam positions ?
There is a light relay in the circuit, it turns the headlight off when the starter is being used .
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Bob, Yes the switch feels like it should be working, plastic appears to be in good condition. Only works when pushing switch all the way down past hi beam position & holding. Haven't noticed if lights dim when starting. There probably is a relay, I had it all apart a couple of months ago & can't remember what all is in there. there is so little time to work on it & most of my rides currently are short so I can manage, however I would like it to be correct.
As far as taking it apart. 1 screw holding turn signal know to post, can't quite make out how to get rest of it apart w/out something breaking, a spring popping out, or some other mechanism coming out that I pay the piper for if I lose it
thanks
I keep looking/working w/it :-/
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What year is the bike we are talking about, here?
The relays are located in different places, and it is hard to help without this info.
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wxp,
Are you saying only the high beam is working? Does the high beam work in both the detent and switched position? No low beam at all? I'm a little confused (common occurance). What kind of tests have you done to eliminate connections, relays, bulb, etc? Testing the circuits, relays and switches is very simple with a test light and keep in mind the high and low circuits are seperate. Before going into the switch and possibly creating problems that don't exist - make sure everything in and out of the switch is working correctly. What year and model is your bike? Accessory items...fairings? I have a simplified R65 lighting diagram if you would like to have it let me know off-list and I can forward a high res copy.
Mike V. (mvtv@cox.net)
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From what I understand, the headlight only works in the momentary, high beam 'flash' position .
I thought I saw in a trouble shooting site, that if the high beam momentary position worked, that the lighting relay wasn't working as it should be .
The lighting relay has a wire from the start relay, and when the starter button is depressed, a ground is removed from the lighting relay, turning off the headlight, kind of a 'load shed', so you have enough power for the starter and the ignition .
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Although in this country motorcycles don't (so far) have headlight on automatically, we do hear about this trend. So BMWs so fitted are provided with a relay which turns off the headlight when the starter is used. But why? Even a motorcycle starter can take several hundred amps on a cold morning I believe, that's practically a short circuit! Headlight, coils and warning lights should take around 10 - 12 amps between them, about half of that going to the headlight. Surely cutting out the headlight would make virtually no difference - it's like a drop in the ocean! 6 amps against 200 or more? Or have I got it all wrong? (It's been known!)
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I always ride with lights on and have been known to forget to turn them off when stopping briefly.I dont know if they cut out when starting ill check tomorrow but ive never had a problem starting since i fitted a gel battery 6 months ago.
Lou
ps I dare say theres a difference between the US spec and EU judging by the wiring diagrams.
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My 1983 R65 recently developed the exact same issue... the high beam worked only when holding the "flash to pass" to the full down position.
On occasion, the lights returned to normal operation. Hmmm... I, too, suspected the switch especially having had the 81's switch disintegrate last year and having replaced it.
The last time I wanted to ride the '83 to work, leaving at 0545 hours, the flippin' light had failed again. In frustration, I pulled of my glow and gave the headlight ring a mighty slap and...
...The light returned to normal ops!
That afternoon, I pulled the ring and lenses assembly, cleaned all connections, ensured the spring tension in the bulb socket was adequate, checked grounds, used some dielectric grease on everything and have not had any further problems.
Don't buy a new ($$$) switch until you spend some quality time inside the headlight shell.
Monte
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Although in this country motorcycles don't (so far) have headlight on automatically, we do hear about this trend. So BMWs so fitted are provided with a relay which turns off the headlight when the starter is used. But why? Even a motorcycle starter can take several hundred amps on a cold morning I believe, that's practically a short circuit! Headlight, coils and warning lights should take around 10 - 12 amps between them, about half of that going to the headlight. Surely cutting out the headlight would make virtually no difference - it's like a drop in the ocean! 6 amps against 200 or more? Or have I got it all wrong? (It's been known!)
No I don't think you have it wrong, but some engineer at BMW, thought it was important enough, to add a relay to the light system .
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Although in this country motorcycles don't (so far) have headlight on automatically, we do hear about this trend. So BMWs so fitted are provided with a relay which turns off the headlight when the starter is used. But why? Even a motorcycle starter can take several hundred amps on a cold morning I believe, that's practically a short circuit! Headlight, coils and warning lights should take around 10 - 12 amps between them, about half of that going to the headlight. Surely cutting out the headlight would make virtually no difference - it's like a drop in the ocean! 6 amps against 200 or more? Or have I got it all wrong? (It's been known!)
Interesting. I would love to be able to turn my headlamp off. Does anyone know if simply ordering the switch for a UK spec R65LS would bolt right up, plug right in & give me this option?
Fissel the Missile
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I've seen the switch with the capability to turn the headlight off, from A&S BMW, if memory serves me correctly, it was around $175, and you would have to figure out how to wire it into your bike, it's not a 'plug and play' type modification .
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I've seen the switch with the capability to turn the headlight off, from A&S BMW, if memory serves me correctly, it was around $175, and you would have to figure out how to wire it into your bike, it's not a 'plug and play' type modification .
Really? It seems odd they would make a different plug since the only difference would need to be an optional "open" position within the switch itself and not a totally different wiring............but I guess it is BMW we are talking about.
Ill give them a call. Thanks
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I just went to the A&S site, the cost is $113.20 ( if you do a search on their site, it's called head light switch euro, no part number available), don't know if it would be a plug and play or not, may try sending them an email, and see what they have to say about being compatible with an R65 .
The switch I was originally thinking about, was for an oilhead bike, that would require a major rewiring effort .
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I just went to the A&S site, the cost is $113.20 ( if you do a search on their site, it's called head light switch euro, no part number available), don't know if it would be a plug and play or not, may try sending them an email, and see what they have to say about being compatible with an R65 .
The switch I was originally thinking about, was for an oilhead bike, that would require a major rewiring effort .
Just tried to call them & apparently they are closed Mondays. I'll try to get in touch with someone tomorrow.
Thanks again-
Fissel the Missile
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I just checked the price on a regular headlight switch, and it's showing $126US .
Let us know what they say about the euro switch, as it's $13 cheaper, than the original OEM part .
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I always ride with lights on and have been known to forget to turn them off when stopping briefly.I dont know if they cut out when starting ill check tomorrow but ive never had a problem starting since i fitted a gel battery 6 months ago.
Lou
ps I dare say theres a difference between the US spec and EU judging by the wiring diagrams.
Checked it today....the high beam does NOT cut out when starting!!!
Lou
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FWIW, my '82 came with a headlight switch that a PO installed with a $2 toggle switch mounted on one of the blanks on the instrument console. I have not checked in detail how it is wired, but it goes off when the inignition is off. When the bike is running and the headlight is switched off, the blue high beam indicator comes on. It works fine and like Lou I drive with my headlight on all the time.
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If you have the typical three position US ignitiion switch (off - parking light only on - headlight and ignition on) you can jumper the igintion wire over to the parking light wire and have the bike run with only the parking light on. I did this when I was doing a lot of slow speed practice in a parking lot and the battery would die due to the low RPMs.
As to taking the switches apart for cleaning - put everything inside a large clear plastic bag (dry cleaning bags work) that way when the spring and BB fly out you do not have to crawl all over the garage looking for them DAMHIK!
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I would still be interested in any clues for the original question. I've managed somehow to break the turn indicator switch on My 81 r65. It is now stuck indicating a right turn anytime the bike is on. Luckily this happened near the house but I haven't been for a ride since. The turn indicator switch flaps back and forth freely. I removed the screw to separate the switch assembly from the handlebar, and the little set screw to remove the orange knob for the turn switch, but still cannot see how to separate the rest of the assembly in order to see the inner side. The yellow high/low beam switch seems to make it impossible to pull the outer shell apart and I don't want to break it. If I could just get it separated I might be able to see what is going on with the turn signal switch. Anyone done anything like this before? It would be a shame to do a full replace, the switch is fairly new and in very clean condition.
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I went through the same situation with my '79 r65 -it was the relay, I bought a new one & all was well... for awhile ,then the next relay did the same thing. Because of the corrosion here in hawaii, i think, relays tend to go south quickly. Anyway, I just jumpered two of the sockets on the relay plug & have been o.k. since then.. the light is on when I start the bike. I keep a new relay in a plastic bag under the seat, don't know why...
Bill Conquest
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I would still be interested in any clues for the original question. I've managed somehow to break the turn indicator switch on My 81 r65. It is now stuck indicating a right turn anytime the bike is on. Luckily this happened near the house but I haven't been for a ride since. The turn indicator switch flaps back and forth freely. I removed the screw to separate the switch assembly from the handlebar, and the little set screw to remove the orange knob for the turn switch, but still cannot see how to separate the rest of the assembly in order to see the inner side. The yellow high/low beam switch seems to make it impossible to pull the outer shell apart and I don't want to break it. If I could just get it separated I might be able to see what is going on with the turn signal switch. Anyone done anything like this before? It would be a shame to do a full replace, the switch is fairly new and in very clean condition.
If you take the switch apart, you'll probably find a broken plastic part in there, no replacement parts are available, if something is broken, you need to replace the entire switch .
I would be hesitant about buying a used switch, as the switch you get, may not be in much better shape than your broken one .
Personally, I'm on my second replacement switch .