The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Adamastor on August 19, 2009, 03:55:04 PM
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Hi everyone... I am new on this forum and might be close to finally buy my first airhead, a mighty R65 :)
I never had a "big" bike before, but have a lot of experience on old Vespas and Lambrettas (both riding and working on them) and also ride a small Suzuki 250cc.
I didn't find in this forum a good check list for buying of a used R65.. I will be testing one next week and would be pretty much grateful to know what to look for. The seller told me I can test ride it, he also told me she runs fine and to be really fine might need in a not too distant future of a new exhaust.
Some doubts:
1-Will this bike ride me home on a first (180 miles distance) trip?
2- If so, what tools should I bring with me for simples adjustments on the side of the road...
3- R65 engine is different from most all airheads, is it still easy to find/buy parts (new OEM or not) for these bikes?
Thanks in advance for the help, and greetings from sunny Portugal :)
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! .if the bike is in good running order it should get you home
2. the standard BMW toolkit has a plug spanner with buit in screwdriver (flat blade and phillips) 5mm(i think or 6)allen key for the generator /ignition cover(bean can)
with a few spanners 10/13/17 mm
What year is it!! i carry spare points and plugs and a few bulbs dont need much more.
3 .Parts are readily available from many suppliers but have your frame number at hand
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=6346898&part=&kind=M&series=K56&body=ohne&arch=0
real Oem will give diagrams and part numbers these uk suppliers ship to the Eu
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/bmw/products/product.php?f=f&code=BA_15_20_OA_30&shnew=New&shnewcode=15&cat=R45%2F50%2F60%2F65%2F75%2F80%2F90%2F100+%282+valve%29&model=R45%2F50%2F60%2F65%2F75%2F80%2F90%2F100+%282+valve%29&modelcode=20&partcode=OA
http://www.motobins.co.uk/
enjoy
Lou
ps welcome to the forum glad youve graduated from the lawn mowers!! if your taking the generator cover of to get to the bean can (points) you would be well advised to disconnect the battery earth terminal if you short the circuit board your in big trouble!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Welcome aboard, Adamastor, glad you found this site, pretty even tempered bunch here !!
A good general look at the bike, fluids leakage, puddles or oil stains on the pavement under the bike, is the engine, transmission, swing arm, final drive covered in grime, a good indication of some serious leakage .
Oil leakage on the fork seal area .
How much tread groove left before the wear bars show on the tires .
Check the steering head bearings for notchiness, standing in front of the bike, with the bike on the center stand, grab the front wheel, and see if there is any play, when you pull and push on the front wheel .
Smoothness of the throttle, 'choke', and clutch cables .
If you can have the seller remove the fuel tank, and have a look under there, is the ignition coil a gray and black model, if it is, it's in your best interest to replace it, as soon as you can, it's one item, that will leave you on the side of the road, especially in wet or damp weather .
Gear oil leaking from the final drive output seal, will leave a splattering of oil on the rear wheel area, and compromise the effectiveness of the the rear braking, and probably have you replacing the rear brake shoes as well .
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Welcome to the forum Adamastor. Everything that Lou and Bob said is +1. They know their business. Do you have good walking shoes? Just me, but I'd be a bit leery about riding 180 miles on an unproven steed. R65's are generally very reliable bikes but if it has been sitting up for any length of time there is a lot that can go wrong on the ride home. Carbs can be leaky, spark plugs might foul, tires might go flat. You name it, it can happen. More better to plan on putting it on a trailer or in the bed of a utey car to get it to the casa.
On the other hand, that's what adventure riding is all about. I seldom go on a long distance road trip that something doesn't happen to test my vocabulary. Pick up a copy of the Haynes and the Clymer manual, spend some time on this forum and before you know it you will be richly rewarded. Good luck! And send us some photos... [smiley=clap.gif]
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This is a late series R65, but i am not sure of the year because it was imported and papers have the date from when she arrived to Portugal.
What is the spark plug spanner size? I will try to take it with me... what is the best plug (so I can buy two)?
Thanks for the tips... I am writting them down :)
Bengt, if all fails.. I will call the trailer (and wait for it on the side of the road).. hope she's fine and I buy it and arrive fine at home :)
Regards,
Sergio
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Here is a photo:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages02.olx.pt%2Fui%2F2%2F34%2F57%2F38002757_1.jpg&hash=6b5067ad094d211ecd011bf4a9753a6f4aec77ad)
Is this a /5 seat?
If it is a late series it could have electronic ignition, right?
Is this the "big" frame R65?
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I don't know what series bike the seat is from, only thing I can tell, is that it is not an R65 seat .
This bike is a twin rear shock bike, not a monoshock, mono shock bikes could be considered a large frame bike, as it is the same frame of the larger displacement bikes .
If the bike was manufactured from 09/80 or later, it will have electronic ignition .
The bike has twin front discs, it may be an '81 model bike .
If you have the serial number, you can go to : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ , put the last 7 characters of the serial number in the search box, you will get the month of manufacture .
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This is a late series R65, but i am not sure of the year because it was imported and papers have the date from when she arrived to Portugal. <snip>
Before you seal the deal, just make sure that it is registerable in your state. I can't say about motorcycles, but with cars if has been imported it usually needs to have an EPA certificate of compliance before it can be registered. You may want to check your state DMV before you commit to the bike.
k_enn
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Hmmm thanks bob, small frame + electronic ignition would be perfect for me.. (I'm short) lets hope I get lucky :)
Thanks once again..
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This is a late series R65, but i am not sure of the year because it was imported and papers have the date from when she arrived to Portugal. <snip>
Before you seal the deal, just make sure that it is registerable in your state. I can't say about motorcycles, but with cars if has been imported it usually needs to have an EPA certificate of compliance before it can be registered. You may want to check your state DMV before you commit to the bike.
k_enn
Thanks K_enn, it was imported but has already national papers so there is no problem with that.. :)
Regards
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I don't know what series bike the seat is from, only thing I can tell, is that it is not an R65 seat .
Sure looks like a /5 seat to me!
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...small frame...would be perfect for me. (I'm short)
The frame size on the R65 refers to it's wheelbase being shorter than other airheads, hence the sportier handling. Depending on your inseam length, you may need some shorter shocks. This seat height issue has been recently discussed here... somewhere.
Monte
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On the internet I found this info:
Seat Height (Unladen) Up to 1980
770 mm (30.3 inches)
Seat Height (Unladen) 1981 On
810 mm (31.9 inches)
I already got the chance to seat on a R60/5 and could reach the ground, but on a R60/7 it was harder... Those frames are equal (31.9 I think), but /5 seats are narrower so easier to reach ground.
This R65 I'll be looking seems to have the narrower /5 seat (that's good, although not original), but if it is also the lower frame it could be perfect :)
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From the picture, it has the appearance, that the bike has been taken care of, not an abused example of an R65 .
The foam in the seat can always be trimmed down if seat height is an issue .
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That sure looks like a /5 seat to me also. The grab rail is just a little bit different than the /6. That is a nice looking bike. Whereabouts in Portugal are you? I spent a little time in Spain about 10 years ago and really enjoyed it. I would love to take a riding vacation in that part of the world. Let us know how the ride home turns out.
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Hmmm thanks bob, small frame + electronic ignition would be perfect for me.. (I'm short) lets hope I get lucky :)
Thanks once again..
The bike looks in good nick...i wouldnt get too excited about the ignition the electronic v points debate rages on some people have gone back to points!!. the spark plugs are standard size personaly i like NGK bp7es and steer clear of Bosch.
But thats just me.
Lou
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Let us know how the ride home turns out.
Will surely do so :)
I live in Porto, northern part of Portugal:
http://www.portoturismo.pt/
Hope the bike is so good as it looks, but I do already know that photos almost always make things look better...
Wish me luck next Monday or Thursday...
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I am home... and came riding my new R65! :)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg32.imageshack.us%2Fimg32%2F8864%2Figp9707.jpg&hash=1a428e4229d34266691c747b193a4979aa13203e)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg38.imageshack.us%2Fimg38%2F5800%2Figp9705.jpg&hash=785a324302928900d45a08594bb1141ecf014957)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg23.imageshack.us%2Fimg23%2F8202%2Figp9704o.jpg&hash=adbd4a503e741b75af5e4a897c1d2cea183c6648)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg31.imageshack.us%2Fimg31%2F759%2Figp9703.jpg&hash=efcb4573de90b75a1e1b046e171297f4d8f74327)
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg252.imageshack.us%2Fimg252%2F8862%2Figp9708.jpg&hash=5c299babc9f08ee60599933e869b06a994279cd7)
I had however some problems... at 40 km from home, it started raining... and the engine went dead. That was not very cool... Were do you think water is doing problems? I removed first one plug and found out both were B7es... I had two BP7ES on my bag (the right plug for it, right?), so I put them in... but still no success, and the right side cylinder plug was very dark so I believe that the right cylinder electrics were loosing more spark than the other, right? I checked both for spark and both seemed to have nice sparks(I know, I earthed the spark very well so I would not fry the electronics).
With new plugs, and after about 10 minutes resting (and after two un-successful tries/cleaning plugs) she started fine again, and I managed to ride home with no more rain on my way.
There was also a missing rubber from the flywheel hole... must buy that really fast...
There is also a cosmetic weird thing on this bike, the front light doesn't turn with the headset, so maybe it once had a fairing, right? This upsets me a bit, because it looks weird when the front wheels is not aligned with the bike body... Can I change it to the normal situation?
There will be a lot of questions on the near future, so please be patient with me, ok?
Regards,
Sergio
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You've got a good looking bike there, a few non-standard parts for the R65 .
The engine quitting on you during a wet ride, is most likely an ignition coil, or spark plug lead problem .
The OEM black and gray coil is a known problematic part, commonly referred to as the 'crack-o-matic' coil, for the propensity of cracks in the plastic case .
You've got a bit of work ahead of you, but nothing to be scared of .
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I still didn't have any time to explore the bike, and will only have tomorrow night at my father's house. The ignition coil is located under the seat (the box where the spark plug leads go to)?
Regards..
(oh, the speedo slowly stopped working during the journey.. hope it's only the cable..)
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Like the color there. Yes, the coil is under the seat. Just lift the seat up and then remove the wire bale/clip under the tank. Be sure to remove the fuel line. Follow the spark plug leads to the coil. If it's a gray coil then you have the famous "crack-o-matic" coil. Wet weather does make it subject to failure, (although I have experienced Hall vane sensor failure in wet weather). Easily replaced though. Look at "motoelektric.com" for the red Dyno coil. As to the headlight, the first thing I would check is the bulb. If it's good then you'll have to run some electrical trouble shooting. Again, you have come to the right place.
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My 1981 R65 had the original Bosch Crack-O-Matic mounted forward under the tank and attached to a factory bracket welded to the main frame backbone. That's also where my replacement Dyna coil lives. My 1983 R65 is the same; coil under tank and forward.
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa1%2Fmontmil%2FBMW%2520R65%2FDyna01.jpg&hash=39bb5a2ec402f1260e47ddc3d16414829f2a73cf)
I notice the plug leads on Adamastor's engine are running forward. Where would a coil fit under the seat of an '81 R65? The square-holed bracket above the OEM fuse box? How about a photo of the chassis under the seat area.
Water and old Bosch dual lead coils don't play nice. Replacement is the only sure cure.
Monte
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Hi there once again...
I took her out for some photos and here they are in hi-quality:
http://img507.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=igp9714.jpg
Unfortunately I believe I have the gray crack-o-matic, and I actually saw a large crack on the plastic case...
The plug leads also have some small cracks.
I need to do a list of "must buy" things, and would be very grateful if you guys could help me out... Please take a good look at the pictures...
Things to do:
1- Clean gas tap (only works well on reserve)
2- Adjust valves (I can hear them a lot)
3- Rebuild carbs
4- ? (please help me fill this list)
x- Clean/Lub Splines (maybe first put her running well a ride a bit)
Things to buy:
1- Timing hole rubber
2- Speedometer cable
3- The non crack-o-matic coil
4- Mufflers + back H union
5- ?
I notice the idle is a bit high, and it tends to be higher after rolling a bit. Is this symptom of anything? Could simply be cable adjusting?
I also noticed the headlight backets are soldered to the frame, so there will be no easy way to convert this to a normal R65 headlight (that turns with headset). Can anyone take a photo of how is a normal R headlight bracket?
Regards,
Sergio
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Say, I just noticed that your bike's color is nearly an exact match for my bike! Wow!! :o
I never thought I'd see another R65 painted the same as mine! You have good taste, my friend! ;)
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Adam, see the thread by Rob Valdez, "New folks that need help on identifying parts" on the Important Topics header of this board. That will come in very handy.
You say that the headlight brackets are soldered onto the fork tubes? Simply amazing! Of course I had a bike one time with the kick starter welded to the shaft but that's a six pack discussion. Send us a photo of that.
If it was me, I would begin the refurbishment with electrical upgrades. It's my experience that about 90% of the engine problems tend to be electrical in nature. Secondly, rebuild the carbs. You'll probably need new floats too. Motobins has good prices and prompt delivery. After you do that you will need to balance the carbs. A simple job but the carbs have to be fresh for starters. Obviously the frame and running gear are in good order since you drove home. You can sort out that stuff later on or in your spare time. I saw a tank on the IBMWR marketplace a day or so back. Don't know if it is still available.
That's my tuppence. [smiley=2cents.gif]
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I would not bother converting back to the normal R65 headlight setup, unless it really bothers you. I think it looks okay from the pictures. Same goes for the saddle. It looks nice and is is the least of your worries. Be different - whenever you are stopped by a knowledgeable BMW enthusiast it will be a good topic for discussion - anyone else won't notice.
Concentrate you efforts on the HT circuit.
After you have checked the valves you will still hear them. Its when you stop hearing them there's an issue.
Fix your speedo - I hope its the cable!
And at 67,000 miles, I bet those rear shocks are tired!
Enjoy your bike.
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You say that the headlight brackets are soldered onto the fork tubes? Simply amazing!
Oh sorry, english is not my native language so I might have confused you. The headlight brackets are soldered to the main frame (the center tube) not to the fork tubes.
The bike looks funny like this, but I dont want to put a fairing on it, since I dont like fairings very much.
Would it be too bad to simply cut the original bracket near the frame, and then simply use a universal headlight bracket like this?
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmoto-madness.com%2Fcatalog%2Fimages%2Fblkbracket.jpg&hash=4a32de3dd65cd93d78f5c214052e8e636a07abbd)
Regards
Sergio
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I would not bother converting back to the normal R65 headlight setup, unless it really bothers you. I think it looks okay from the pictures. Same goes for the saddle. It looks nice and is is the least of your worries. Be different - whenever you are stopped by a knowledgeable BMW enthusiast it will be a good topic for discussion - anyone else won't notice.
Concentrate you efforts on the HT circuit.
After you have checked the valves you will still hear them. Its when you stop hearing them there's an issue.
Fix your speedo - I hope its the cable!
And at 67,000 miles, I bet those rear shocks are tired!
Enjoy your bike.
Yes, main priorities are to get her running well and with liability. Then I'll do the cosmetic restoration... I actually like that /5 seat.. and its confy.
The rear shocks might not have the 67.000km, on the way home, although I didn't run more than 100 km/h, they seemed fine... (my only bike experience is with Vespas, Lambrettas and a Suzuki GN250)
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Oh sorry, english is not my native language so I might have confused you. The headlight brackets are soldered to the main frame (the center tube) not to the fork tubes.
Not a problem Sergio. Being from Texas, English isn't my first language either. I have headlight brackets like that on my (former) R65. Monte "Chicken Man" Miller pointed out that my headlight is either aftermarket or from some other bike and it actually looks pretty good. Check out the "Show us your R65 thread" and see what I mean. You'll see all manner of customization on this site and almost all of them look really good. What you don't want is something like this. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/1335109316.html
A rat bike extraordinnaire.
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That's the correct headlight bucket for the R65 but the mounting setup is completely home-brew.
Same thing for the side covers. The plastic edge trim, shape and odd faux-louvers are, well, odd.
Get the engine running properly, tend to any safety of operation issues, and lastly, mess with the cosmetic issues.
Monte
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Hmmm still about the headlight bracket... it doesnt look homebrew. The engine number is consistent with a R65T. I tried to google for it, but there's no info on this particular model...
Can you help me out sorting differences between regular R65 and R65t ?
Regards,
Sérgio :)
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Ok, so here goes what I've done so far:
- valve clearances + rocker arm
- cleaned fuel tap (no fuel on normal position, now its ok)
- new brakes oil (got rid of the drag I felt)
- checked motor / gear / rear wheel oils
Tried to balance carbs (still didn't rebuilt them because they seem to be working ok). With this method: http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/airheads/parklotbalance.shtml (yes, I did this with a hot engine after 30km ride)
Got to this point:
- on right side, revs are higher with mixture screw all in. There must be a too rich situation here... If i put it 3/4 turn out it tends to backfire if I close throttle. With the screw all in, it seems to work +/- fine.
The right side muffler is much more rotten than the left one (small hole near the passenger foot rest, you can feel hot fumes coming from there) - can this be the culprit for the over rich situation?
- Left mixture screw does no obvious rev fluctuation.
She can handle idle on 1200rpm, but not very stable. She pulls fine, starts fine and revs very well on the street / highway.
Left plug looks ok, right plug looks more black.
I know I should just order new mufflers and the carb rebuilding kits, but I want to ride it while I do the things to buy list...
Any opinions would be very appreciated...
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I think your carbs need a bit of attention .
Sounds like there's a bit of debris in the idle mixture circuits of both carbs .
I would personally do the carb gasket and seal replacements .
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Most definitely time to do a full overhaul on the Bings, top to bottom. The Clymer manual has the correct specs for all the jets, needles and assorted widgets you'll need. Buy the original Bing diaphragms and save yourself some aggravation. Read Snowbum's Bing overhaul technical info. Monte
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Hi there, I was wondering... I am used to Dellorto carburators for 2T engines, so I know nothing about these diaphragms and so.
Is there any online or PDF tutorial on how Bing carburators work? I like to know how they act :)
Regards
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Read Snowbum's Bing overhaul technical info.
...Is there any online or PDF tutorial on how Bing carburators work? I like to know how they act...
Once more, with feeling... ::)
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/
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Oh... sorry :) (and thanks once again... i am still a bit lost in this world!)
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Another report:
- There's an oil leak that seems to come from those robbers beneath the right cilinder:
(https://bmwr65.org/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg33.imageshack.us%2Fimg33%2F2700%2Foilleak.jpg&hash=97ac0777080e30ed626ac2a2ba08c1d875dfa375)
To change these you do have to at least take the cylinder out, right? :-?
I am starting to get the gears right, pre-loading makes a lot of difference and passing through neutral from 1st to 2nd makes it smooth and clunkless.
Now a silly question... is it safe to ride an airhead on city trafic? It's summer and I got my feet really hot.... ::)
Regards,
Sergio
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It's probably best to completely remove the cylinder, as there is a thin o-ring at the cylinder base, that should be replaced as well .
I ride my '81 R65 in Phoenix in the summer time, and as long as you keep moving it shouldn't be a problem, but if you are stopped for an extended period of time (5 minutes), I would shut the engine down .
Another thing to consider, is that the charging system is not working in these conditions, you are running the electrical system of the bike off of the battery .
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A little update:
- new fork oil
- new gear oil (no metal seen on the magnetic plug, hurray!)
- removed slack from the gear lever (it was too loose)
- used some high temperature silicone to try to seal the "crack-o-matic" cracks.
Must do a home water test before ridding in the rain... (I know I should buy a new/better coil, but money doesnt stretch and this month I have already spent too much).
Now I am waiting for motobins to deliver me some goodies (overhaul kit for carburators, oil / air filters, new speedo cable, new sparkplug cables, etc etc) to finish the most important jobs :)
Regards,
Sergio
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A little update: - used some high temperature silicone to try to seal the "crack-o-matic" cracks. Sergio
Unfortunately, Sergio, the cracks indicate that the primary and secondary windings are most likely corrupted. The silicone will do little or nothing to correct the internal issues. Even in the dry Texas heat, my '81 did not run smoothly until the coil was replaced.
Just ride on with a bit of a miss until you can replace the Bosch coil with the far better Dyna coil.
Monte
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If the bike has sat for a while then those pushrod tube seals might seal back up with a bit of riding, if not then you have to decide how much "seepage" you are willing to put up with!
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A little update: - used some high temperature silicone to try to seal the "crack-o-matic" cracks. Sergio
Unfortunately, Sergio, the cracks indicate that the primary and secondary windings are most likely corrupted. The silicone will do little or nothing to correct the internal issues. Even in the dry Texas heat, my '81 did not run smoothly until the coil was replaced.
Just ride on with a bit of a miss until you can replace the Bosch coil with the far better Dyna coil.
Monte
Hmmm.. that's disturbing.. but since it currently is running ok (hope the idle will be better after carb rebuild) I think I will try to run it with this bosh unit some more time.
Silicone is just something for the wet weather... if that was the culprit for my first trip with rain failure...
Justin, hope they seal up a bit... I am used to leaky bikes, but that's something I dont actually appreciate ehehehe
Regards..
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Do yourself a big favour get the carbs ultrasonically cleaned or you could be back to square one before you know it, and if the cleaning company ask for them stripped be sure to strip the enricher assembly and keep both carb bits separate, it may cost you 50 Euro but believe it will be the best 50 you spend on it.
Lou
ps i do hope you ordered the bing diapragms not generic!!!
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Hi there once again... surfing the web I saw this article:
http://www.slash5.net/org/Push%20rod%20seals.html
It seems it is possible to stop a small leak by tightening of the seal (without taking out the head + cylinder).
I just don't understand how this can be done, or how does that tool look... Is this thing possible?
Thanks in advance for any help here (once again)... :)
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The push rod tube has a metal 'washer' on it, and this washer pushes on the push rod tube seal, it's been said that these washers are pressed onto the push rod tube, and with use, they can get pushed up the tube, so they exert less pressure on the seal, allowing the seal to leak .
Only method I've seen published, is to tap on the washer with a brass drift, to push it back down the push rod tube, I've never done it, so I don't know what amount of effort is needed to move the washer .
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Good and bad news:
Good news: I changed all fluids and oil filter. No metal flakes on magnetic plugs from gear box and on the wheel transmition.
Bad news: oil filter (original bmw brand) looked really old and had lots of little metal flakes. Guess lately this bike has been serviced on a bad mechanic... :(
I wonder where these have come from... maybe they could be there for years... I hate bad mechanics and/or lazy owners. At least now I know she's got good oil and with a new filter all parts should get enough/clean oil.
Maybe I'll check the oil filter soon to see if there are any more metal flakes showing... would you do that? If I open the filter box can I re-use that filter and gaskets or do I have to re-fit a new one?
Regards
Sergio
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If you still have the oil filter, and old engine oil, cut the filter at the metal ends, unroll the filter media, and place it in a container with alcohol, mineral spirits, diesel fuel, and swish the filter around to get the metal out of the filter .
Strain the fluid through a paper towel, and then use a magnet to see if the material is iron based, or aluminum .
A test for aluminum, is to place a drop or two of battery acid on the flakes, if they are aluminum, they will boil and dissolve in the acid .
I would run the engine for a period of time, maybe 1,000 km., then remove the filter again, and take a good look at it .
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My air filter just arrived... is it possible that I have a too rich situation because of a dirty/old air filter?
My center stand also arrived but I don't know where do the springs hold on to (on the bike frame).
I didn't saw any photo on the web clearing this doubt, can anyone help me out here?
Regards
Sergio
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There should be two sheet metal parts, one on each side of the frame by the engine that are attached to the frame, with a hook on it to attach the springs .
Here's a link to the RealOEM.com site .
http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=03648mospid=47851&hg=46&fg=10
Reference item is 17 .
Part number : 46521238329 .
Hope it helps out .
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Oh I miss that part :(
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Hi there... I have been working on the R65 until now it's 11:30 PM here, and I have cleaned both carbs, inserted the new airfilter, new sparkplug plug wires and new speedo cable.
Couldnt go out now, so I just started the engine to see if everything was ok but was amazed by this:
-- HUGE clouds of smoke from the left mufler (there is even a small smoke/air leak from the exhaust manifold on the cilinder). The right side had some smoke but much less...
Did this happen because the bike was on the sidestand for about 4/5 days (un-used)?
Apart from the smoke all seemed ok, but I will do a test ride tomorrow morning...
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The excessive amount of smoke after leaving the bike on the side stand is normal, these engines don't have valve guide seals, and oil gets into the cylinders .
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Thanks, bob... yet another doubt:
-> I read on teh R65 manual that the intake valve clearance for the R65 is 0.005mm. I had adjusted mine to 0.01mm (because I read all airheads were 0.01mm intake, 0.02 out).
Is this true that the R65 is only 0.005mm? What difference can it make? Can it justify my over rich plug look?
Regards
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I don't have the owners manual handy, I'm at work .
But if memory serves me correctly, the clearance for the intake is .004 in., .10 mm, exhaust is .006 in., .15 mm., as stated in the owners manual .
A lot of riders adjust the clearance a little wider .
If you have the clearance set to tight, when the engine gets up to operating temperature, there may be no clearance, and the affected valve may not be closing all the way .
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I think there should be a world wide ban on quoting valve clearances in metric because they make my head hurt trying to convert them to real units.
.005 mm = .0002" which is one too many zeros to be anywhere near.
My original riders handbook quotes inlet at .05mm or .002" but most everyone uses .004"
This could could not cause your over rich plug.
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The excessive amount of smoke after leaving the bike on the side stand is normal, these engines don't have valve guide seals, and oil gets into the cylinders .
A God has spoken.....learn this lesson well padawan!!
Lou skywalker
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Everyday there's a new doubt so here goes a new one:
- My right spark plug has one side dark, and the other side brown/gray. What does this mean? Do I have an air leak inside cylinder? The left cylinder plug looks same color all around...
Regards,
Sergio