The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: ukzknos on September 16, 2009, 02:32:45 PM
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Other than sanding does anyone know of a chemical paint remover that will take the clearcoat and basecoat off the side panel/mudguard without it damaging the plastic?
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Most chemical paint strippers contain methylene chloride, which attacks all the plastics I've ever used it on .
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Wet sanding works well but is labor intensive. Why do you want to go all the way down to the plastic substrate? Monte
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Why do you want to go all the way down to the plastic substrate? Monte
Thanks Monte
I'm going to repaint with an acrylic paint and assume it may not be compatible with the paints used by BMW in 1980?
I'd be delighted to hear that I only need to remove the clear coat!
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In stripping paint from plastic models I've successfully used brake fluid. Most plastics are resistant to it but it will eat the paint off. Test a small area on the back side first and let us know the result.
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Good idea about the brake fluid. I was about to suggest some of my former wife's coffee but brake fluid is definitely the better idea. I'm going to try that tonight.
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I can testify for sure that brake fluid will strip the paint down to the plastic. Don't ask me how I know... :-[
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Put the brake fluid down .....dont do it.... most good paint shops stock a barrier sealing coat which when applied to a prepaired surface seals any nasty gremlins in, talk to your paint shop and just use brake fluid in.....brakes.
Lou
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Like Lucky sez, a surfacer/sealer will get you where you want to go.
I use acrylic enamels, with a gloss hardener additive, rather than a two-stage system. Usually Dupont or PPG. Clear coat top coats can make most any slop shop look good but you need to have your act together to shoot real paint and have it look sharp. Hint... good prep and wet sanding costs far less than the two-stage products. Monte
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I'm with Monte wet sanding is more environmentally friendly also and makes for a better paint job.
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Consider this... Did BMW utilize two-stage clear coat paint systems in 1980? If so, how come my original tank pin stripes are wearing off at the knee contact area? There is no evidence of a clear coat paint job and my scooter is an '81 model. You may have a repaint on the side panels and perhaps elsewhere.
Oh, how you'll love sanding in between those louvered vents. [smiley=evil.gif]
Monte
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My '81 has a clear coat over the paint, but the '84 LS does not appear to have a clear coat .
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Monte
You are correct my tank is original without clearcoat (and my pinstriping has worn off the tank too) but all the plastics have been repainted in 2 coat.
They are a bad match and I can't get the paint code made up so I'm going to paint the whole thing!
Steve
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Steve, exactly what color are you planning on using?
I, or rather my wife, selected an OEM BMW blue for "our" '83 R65 that she spotted on another BMW at Lone Star BMW in Austin, Texas. It turned out to be the original BMW 501 blue that first graced "our" bike fresh from the factory. A true coincidence.
I priced the German Glasurit (sp?) paint and got a bad case of sticker shock. With the reducers and paint and stuff I was staring at $200.00 easy. Plan "B"...
Found a 2010 Honda Insight color call Clear Sky Blue Metallic that was a beautiful match. Around $60 for the quart of AE paint, reducer and gloss hardener additive. Pics in the Gallery section.
For those shopping for colors, try the auto manufacturers websites. Most all have a trick system where you can paint the car in any available color, then rotate the vehicle image so you can see how it looks in different light and reflections. This multiple viewing of all angles can give a better judgement call than simply looking at a small color chip.
The Pacific Rim autos seem to have a much better selection of colors than the American built vehicles; even those American cars built in Korea. I was impressed by several tints offered by Hyundai and Kia.
Monte