The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: barcelona_r65 on September 11, 2009, 05:01:45 PM
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Can anyone walk me through an oil change? ... Or perhaps scan the pages from their shop manual?
Before going Airhead, I had always been a four-wheeler (1970 Chevelle Malibu Convertible) and was able to do it all ... I even swapped the entire engine one evening with a friend who had lost his license and was going to junk his '70 hardtop....
I'M ASHAMED TO ADMIT IT, BUT I DON'T EVEN KNOW WHERE THE "LUG NUT" IS FOR THE OIL PAN ON MY R65 ... AND :-[ I've owned it for more than 10 years now ... :'(
The crisis is hitting hard and I need to "pinch some pennies" ...
ANY HELP? ... PLEASE?...
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No problem !
First, the drain plug is at the backside of the oil pan, there should be an allen wrench looking plug (I think it's a 6 mm), remove it, and the oil will come out, there's an aluminum crush washer, that's the seal for the drain plug .
The oil filter in on the right side of the engine near the front, under a triangular looking plate with three 10 mm bolts holding it on .
Remove the bolts, and have a drain pan under there, because you will get a fair amount of oil out of there .
Remove the plate/cover, extract the filter, and take a good look inside the filter cavity, to see if there are any o-rings on the hollow pipe in the middle of the area .
The original filters didn't have integral seals on the filter, you had to put an o-ring on the pipe, then put the filter on, so there's a remote chance there may be one still in there .
Clean the cover up, if it needs it, then lube the tube type seals on the oil filter, insert it on the pipe , next put the thin large metal washer into the cavity, and make sure it stays up against the small lip that sticks out a bit, lube up the o-ring, and place it on the cover, and then re-install the filter cover, put the three bolts back in, and tighten them up .
Remember you are threading a steel bolt into an aluminum case, stripping the soft metal threads out, isn't hard to do .
Fill the oil back up to the full mark, and start the engine, and check for leaks .
If you don't know this, to check the oil level, the bike needs to be on the center stand, remove the dip stick wipe off the oil, and then place the dip stick back on the engine, don't thread it back in, just let it rest on the threads .
Some bikes don't like to have the oil level at the full level, they just burn it down a ways, and it settles in somewhere in the middle of the range, just have to see how your bike acts in this respect .
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I'd aim for the halfway mark to start with on the oil level. It actually doesn't seem to take much to have it go over the top mark, and
I haven't met an airhead yet that liked the oil level being filled to the top!
As Bob mentioned - measure the oil level with the scap UNSCREWED and just resting on the threads, and make sure that the bike is on a level surface on the centerstand when you take the measurement.
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To Bob's items I would add-
When you remove the three bolts and the filter pull the parts out carefully.
There may be
1) Metal cover
2) Paper gasket (may or maybe not)
3) 3000 dollar white o-ring
4) one or more flat washers under the 3000 dollar white o-ring.
5) filter either one piece or two piece with a connecting tab (either is OK).
Put these back in reverse order. If the flat washers are bent, replace 'em. If there are two or three flat washers in there then put two or three back in. Never re-use a white 3000 dollar o-ring. Always put in a new one.
Good luck.
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wow ... sounds spooky...
Does anyone have any photos of what it looks like under that 3-bolt plate? ... I'm getting myself all worked up about finding surprises that I won't understand ... :-[
Maybe there's a link to some existing photos out there in cyber-space... anyone?
($3000 white o-ring? ... can you expound a bit more?... :-/ )
thanks.
P.S. When you use "right" or "left" side of the bike do you mean, sitting on it, standing in front of it or perhaps something else ? ... ::)
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There are some manufacturing tolerance/assembly issues relating to how far "in" the metal canister that holds the oil filter is seated into the engine casing. The "depth" varies from about 1.5mm to 3.0+ mm. The story of the $3000 O-ring is that if one doesnt squish it far enough, it doesn't provide sufficient seal, and you may either have an oil leak, or you may have an air leak which prevents proper oil flow->which causes lack of engine lubrication-> can destroy engine->$3000 to rebuild engine@ dealers.
So, under the cover, you will find:
1) Possibly 0, 1, or 2 thin treated paper "gaskets" - these are used to adjust for the depth of the oill filter canister. If you've got one or more under there and they look OK, you can leave it in place. These are used when the metal canister is not quite as deep in the engine case as it could be, to avoid over-squeezing the white O-ring.
2) The white O-ring - should be replaced with new filter with each filter change. Ideally, these should be squeezed enough so that upon removal they are more "square" in cross section than perfectly round. A new O-Ring and paper gasket usually come with each new oil filter if you buy WIX, Mahle, or FRAM oil filters.
3) Metal "washer" - this should go between the O-ring and the engine case to prevent the O-Ring from slipping into the edge of the canister and being cut = VERY BAD THING. The metal washer bit usually has a side with a sharp edge - put that side against the engine case.
So, after pulling out the old filter and ensuring that there are no "left over" small black rubber "donuts" sitting inside the bottom of the canister, install new oil filter. Then put on metal washer/shim and then White O-ring. If your bike has a paper gasket that is damaged, replace it, otherwise you can leave it on there and reinstall the cover. Make sure the O-ring doesn't slip out of place as you tighten the bolts down on the cover. Don't overtighten bolts or you'll strip out the threads
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This site may be useful:
http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/
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Remember:
Filter first
Metal washer or washers second
White O-ring Third
paper gasket forth (if you are using the paper gasket)
cover last with three bolts.
My bike currently uses 2 washers and no paper gasket. Just about every bike is different due to different depths of the oil filter "canister".
Where is that Snowbum Article????
Barcelona R65 --- Read this:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Oil.htm
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MMMMM $3000 "O" ring must be from NASA
Lou
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MMMMM $3000 "O" ring must be from NASA
Lou
Actually, the 3K amount is for a complete engine overhaul if the O-ring fails or is screwed up on installation. O-rings cheap. Motors... Gawd!
Monte
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Hello Barcelona,
Here is all the poop you need to know. Go to
www.airheads.org/content/view/189/98/
My fellow Airhead Bob ( Snowbum ) has listed all the does and don't so you can't get it wrong. OLDPAUL.
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Oh i forgot!!! If you don't have a torque wrench...get one. Steel drain plugs in aluminum threads = dangerous. You will eventually strip a thread if you don't have torque wrench and you don't use a fresh crush washer....expensive but worth it.
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I have three different torque wrenches of varying capacities but none of them are used on the bike's drain plugs. Fresh crush washer and a gentle "that's feels right" snug-up with a short-handled wrench is more than adequate for my bikes and cars. [smiley=2cents.gif] Monte