The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: Bob_Roller on March 21, 2009, 01:58:34 PM
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I've been thinking about ordering some Honeywell 2AV54 vane sensors that are the heart of the bean can in the electronic ignition system of the '81 and later bikes.
Would there be any interest of any other members here in this part.
They are currently in stock at Newark Electronics.
Cost is $13.32 each plus whatever shipping costs would be.
I would roughly figure that with shipping from Newark to me and then from me to a member, it would be in the $16 range each.
I was looking at the oilhead ignition system, it has two sensors on a small metal plate, with about a 6 inch wiring 'pigtail', and the cost is $219.
I'm considering replacing the sensor on the R65, it's 29 years old, and has spent the last 16 years in the desert heat of Phoenix.
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I ordered a few a while back as several parts-houses list them as "obsolete".
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It may be worth it in the long run, though in Australia we can get it readily through Jaycar store network
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZD1900&keywords=zd1900&form=KEYWORD
I got mine for A$19 over the counter. Who knows how long for though.
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Bob, do you have to order them in bulk or something?
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Considering all the other electrical consternation I've been going through lately, I'm interested in a new or spare Hall effect sensor.
How involved a job is it to replace? Looking at the Hall effect items on the Newark site, I wouldn't begin to even know what to order.
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There is no minimum order, you could just order one, but with a $6-7 minimum shipping cost, you may as well order a few extra.
You don't get a pricing break, until you order 50 or more.
After seeing the cost to replace the set on the oilhead, for $219, I'm thinking it may be a wise move.
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Considering all the other electrical consternation I've been going through lately, I'm interested in a new or spare Hall effect sensor.
How involved a job is it to replace? Looking at the Hall effect items on the Newark site, I wouldn't begin to even know what to order.
There's a step by step procedure in the FAQ section.
The manufacturers part number is : 2AV54 (Honeywell).
Just remember, that if you render an internal part unuseable, there are no individual parts available, you would need to get a 'donor' bean can for spare parts.
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Would there be any interest of any other members here in this part.
I'd be interested for my '81. The only question is, how many would it be prudent to order for the long term? In other words, what are the probability & frequency of failure (not counting possible operator stupidity, of course)?
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Well, I will give my bike as an indicator, the serial number of my bike ends with B6385009, the 1981 model year US version of the R65 started with serial number B6385001.
So, I probably have the oldest R65 in the US with electronic ignition still on the road, so figure the sensor was probably manufactured in 1980 sometime, as the date of manufacture of my bike is : 09/80 .
I just turned 80,000 miles on the bike, and it has been ridden in the desert heat of Phoenix going on 16 years.
So I'd say that the sensor is a pretty reliable component.
But like any old electronic component, it may fail on the way home from work today !!
Availability of the part can be a problem sometimes, I was looking last August for the part at Newark Electronics, and they were out of stock, and the manufacturers lead time was about 6 months at that point in time.
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Yes I want one. I've been meaning to do the 2 sensor mod to my bean can. If you are ordering them put me down. No postage necessary, I'll meat ya at the gas station or some such,
rich
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I should probably get a couple, I just don't know if Bob could ship them out any cheaper than the vendor?
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Ed,
The savings wouldn't amount to much, but I thought I'd throw it out there and see if there was any interest.
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From your first post it sounded like the HEV Sensor for the R65 is the same as for the Oilheads. Do I understand that correctly? If so there are a couple of R1100's that I am the primary support for that need some spares.
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They are the same sensors on the airhead eletronic ignition bikes, and the oilheads.
Do a search for : 2AV54, and you should find some links to various airhead and oilhead articles about replacing them.
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was just having a look around and stumbled across this site.
http://www.hallsensors.de/Hall-Vane.htm
*The second one down (CHYME56l) looks to includes a plug that looks to be a fit for the wiring loom. Probably needs to be confirmed
*All the PDF documents from the manufacturer state that the customer can specify lengths and connectors.
It may well be worth considering a run of 'drop in' replacement sensors, using the appropriate CYHME301 sensor, with correct length cable, connector and little plastic retainer for the bean can shell.
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From Bob_Roller: << serial number of my bike ends with B6385009 >>
Bob, you're exactly 200 ahead of me. The build date of mine is Oct. 1980, so it must have been a matter of a few days.
OK, put me down for one. (I'll keep it in a baggie & throw it into the deal free when I get too old to ride & have to sell the bike.)
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The p/n 2AV54 Vane Switch on the Newark site is really good, but I'm trying to reconcile this with the p/n 12111244088, Ignition Sensor, on the Max BMW microfiche. They don't appear to be the same thing. Admittedly I'm mostly electrically challenged (Monte, I never could remove the AA battery from my flashlight) so I would appreciate it if someone could tell me if I'm looking at the right part.
Does the 2AV54 vane switch fit inside the bean can?
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The part number you gave, is for the complete 'bean can' assembly.
List price is $514.49 from BMW.
There are no individual parts available to the general public, unless you have a 'donor' bean can, to take parts off of.
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Ouch! That hurts just to think about it. More to the point, does the Hall vane sensor fit inside of the bean can? If I'm reading the Honeywell drawing correctly it is only about 22.5mm W x 17mm D x 17mm H. It's been a decade or more since I cracked one of the cans open.
Having been stranded 150 miles from home before because a Hall vane sensor went out I think it most prudent to be prepared.
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Yeah, it's deep inside the 'canister', a complete dis-assembly of the 'bean can' is required.
If you are wondering, this is not the kind of part that can be easily changed on the side of the road, if it fails.
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was quoted R7000 (US$700) out here in the deep south of Africa and R2500 for the correct 1-piece twin coil.
What is in the 'bean can' and what is its real name?
I also bought a Haynes manual for over $70 and that really doesn't tell me much about the electronic ignition.
Are 'bean cans' the same on R100/80/65 etc?
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The nomenclature that is in the BMW parts catalog is an ignition sensor.
The Hall effect sensor, and the centrifugal timing advance mechanism, plus some support plates are what occupy the inside of the assembly.
The same 'sensor' is used on all of the bikes of this era, that have electronic ignition systems.
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and it is called a bean can cause it does kinda look like a small can of beans.. :D
Yes, indeed replacing that Hall effect sensor inside the trigger unit is NOT a side-of-the-road repair job, but it can be replaced on a bench at home.
Rick at Motorrad Elecktrik can get yours repaired/refurbished if you aren't able to do it yourself, though it will cost less than a new complete trigger unit, it will certainly be more than the do-it-yourself option which hopefully only requires buying the hall effect sensor (also called a "vane" sensor as it detects the passage of a metal "vane" passing by it to cause it to trigger the ICU to drive the coils to spark)
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The nomenclature that is in the BMW parts catalog is an ignition sensor.
I have also seen it referred to as the Ignition Trigger Sensor. Motobins site.
Rick at Motorrad Elecktrik can get yours repaired/refurbished if you aren't able to do it yourself...
I had my Ignition Trigger Sensor overhauled through MotorradElektrik. Be advised, Rick does subcontract the work. I experienced an issue when the unit was returned to me after some 4-5 weeks (not Rick's fault) and had to send it back. All told, about a month and a half wait. Works fine, now. Cost is $185 plus shipping.
A short time ago, I bought a disassembled 'bean can' from friend Trolle. He included two of the 2AV54 sensors. Now I have the option of building up a spare can or just holding the parts as spares. Hum...
Monte
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I just received the hall effect sensors yesterday, I ordered 10 .
I need 3, a co-worker wants 2, MrRiden wants 1, Altritter showed interest in 1, so that leaves 3 available if anyone is interested .
Cost is $15 plus mailing costs, which in the US should be around $2.
Newark Electronics charged $16US for shipping, for a 1 pound package, kind of makes purchasing 1 a bit expensive .
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I'd like one, Rob. I just replaced my bean can with a used one and I want to fix my old one with a new sensor as a spare. Let me know what to do.
John M
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John,
Send me a PM, and we'll get it set up .
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I'm in South Africa and bean cans are like gold and I'm petrified of mine failing ..... so much so that I don't trust my bike for a long trip.
Will a bean can from a R100 or R80 bolt straight in with no mod etc and is that a job that can be done at the side of the road?
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Yes to both, but if you do it at the road side be very careful to mark the position of the old can, before you exchange it with a new one or else your timing will be wrong.
greetings from a thunderstormy north
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Ditto to Trolle on that beancan replacement. I replaced my failing can with a used one from an 82 R100RT and it is a straight replacement. Two allen screws and switch the electrical clip. I tried to mark the position to not alter the timing, but it didn't work very well and had to set the timing by ear and looking at the tach. Not perfect, but it's running OK and much better than the bum can that came out. I finally broke down and bought a timing light last weekend and will be setting my timing properly this weekend after good long warmup ride. Hope to repair the old can with a new sensor to have a spare.
Good luck with yours!
John M