The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: fishypaws on March 28, 2009, 02:46:26 AM
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Yeah its mister newbie again. My Little project has the worst 2 throttle cables I have ever seen on a bike. I am wondering if there is a source for the two different length cables (one is allegedly 1169 mm, the other 1129 mm as per the almighty BMW parts desk)? Is non oem OK?
There are other sources out there I know of eubmw for one.
Any ideas kind r65 lovers out there? Much love for the great responses thus far - fishypaws
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I have used one aftermarket cable (clutch) and I really don't care for it. I think that the factory cables are the way to go. BUT, I think that Moto-Bins has special low friction cables that sound interesting but I've never used them.
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FP,
Can't really comment on nach der Marktöffnung cables for your 1979 bronco brown R65 but I was happy with the BMW cables I got from Hammersley BMW http://www.webparts.com/fiche.php
not too pricey, decent service and they fit right.
rich
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It was easy enough to find alternative brake line, but cables is another story. I've always bought the BMW cables - the lengths and ends are correct and they seem to be good quality. I've got some tools to make bicycle cables but they won't work on the larger motorcycle cables.
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Oddly enough, on my '79 with the two full length cables, I "suddenly" (?) couldn't get enough free-play in my throttle cables. No matter what I tried.
I ordered a new pair, they were identical in every way to the pair I was replacing, but still, not enough free-play, which meant not enough cable exposed from the sheath.
I was lucky enough to find a place here in town that made cables, and I took one of mine in with me, and they sold me a length of cable, and the appropriate nipple-ends, comparing them to what I brought in.
He told me to get some silver solder, and that requires a hotter heat source than your typical soldering iron. So I used my propane torch.
It was a little iffy getting everything to stay in place during the soldering (don't forget flux), but it worked out, and I've been riding with those cables for over 2 years now. YMMV
Bottom line, though, I don't know why stock cables won't work on my bike. There is no damage to the carbs or the throttle...
???
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Bottom line, though, I don't know why stock cables won't work on my bike. There is no damage to the carbs or the throttle...???
Hum... Running stock handlebars? Your cable issue is a real mystery. Monte
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Oddly enough, on my '79 with the two full length cables, I "suddenly" (?) couldn't get enough free-play in my throttle cables. No matter what I tried.
I ordered a new pair, they were identical in every way to the pair I was replacing, but still, not enough free-play, which meant not enough cable exposed from the sheath.
I was lucky enough to find a place here in town that made cables, and I took one of mine in with me, and they sold me a length of cable, and the appropriate nipple-ends, comparing them to what I brought in.
He told me to get some silver solder, and that requires a hotter heat source than your typical soldering iron. So I used my propane torch.
It was a little iffy getting everything to stay in place during the soldering (don't forget flux), but it worked out, and I've been riding with those cables for over 2 years now. YMMV
Bottom line, though, I don't know why stock cables won't work on my bike. There is no damage to the carbs or the throttle...
???
Rob,
I found 2 different part numbers for the '79-'80 year bikes, with the twin cables at the hand grip.
I deal with parts department here at work quite regularly, and it isn't too uncommon to get parts that are mislabeled, or put into the wrong storage bin.
Here are the part numbers that I found .
32731237691 1007 mm long.
32731237692 1096 mm long.
If they aren't the wrong parts, routing of the cables is the only other explanation that can account for them not fitting.
Found a part number for cables that are 1108 mm long, for an R100 manufactured in 05/79.
32731236616.
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It is possible that I got mis-labled parts, several years apart.
No, the only way the bike would run is with the adjustment completely gone - that is, the adjuster screwed all the way into the carb ear.
I don't see how a mis-routed cable would change the relationship between the cable and the sheath.
My handlebars had been the same since 1980.
Just a weird-o thing. I'm not losing any sleep over it.