The New And Improved Unofficial R65 Forum V2
Technical Discussion => BMW Technical Q&A, Primarily R65 => Topic started by: ed_delaney on February 11, 2007, 03:34:08 PM
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I've a 1983 R65LS "project." I'm currently trying to get the inner lower steering bearing race off the triple tree. I've tried a bearing splitter, but can't fit the tool in because of the steering stops (the raised aluminum pieces). I understand there are recesses under the bearing for a puller, but I haven't a puller with very thin hooks. I'm tempted to light my cutting torch, but am afraid I'll be sorry.
Any suggestions from someone who has actually removed a frozen lower steering bearing?
Thanks.
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http://www.boxerworks.com/phorum/read.php?f=1&i=183714&t=183714
This is not a R65 being worked on, but I don't think there are any significant differences here.
Be sure to read the entire thread, to get all takes on the procedure. You may find one that works better than the others, or a combination of them may be best for you.
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ed,
I am doing the same job myself today on my G/S.
After seeing your post , I whipped down and took my lower bearing off.
Held the triple tree in a vice.
Used a Dremel to cut the roller race off .
The dust cover under the bearing is going to get destroyed regardless. You need to just put on a new one.
Heated up the bearing base.
Whacked with a hammer and large screwdriver on the side that is easily accessible to get things started.
Then used two large flat head screwdrivers as levers, to work things evenly.
Once it started moving, a couple more judicious whacks, and it came off.
Total time about 3 minutes.
Now I will have to read Robs link and see what I did wrong. :-X
Chris
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I heated the whole assembly and pressed the tube out of the tripletree along with the race, as is done at the factory and many workshops (procedure described in Clymer). To replace the tube, I froze it, and heated the tripletree then pressed them together again. That raised a storm of indignation amongst some on Boxerworks, though several agreed it was a common and safe procedure if done properly. No damage was done, but would only suggest it if you had a press. Always cautious when cutting, whacking and levering are suggested for around this area, the chance of a slip onto the vital bits is very real. Pullers are a nicer idea, but those two cutouts at the bottom don't allow much purchase for any tool.
Bill..........................;-)
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Bill, Chris (&Rob)--
Thanks. I don't have a Dremel, nor a press. I guess I'll have to do something about lacking those.... I ended up using an angle grinder to cut through the race. Unfortunately, this left a bit of a score in the tube. I ended up filling that with a wirefeed welder and then filed it down.
I believe I'll put some antiseize on the tube before I put the new bearing on.
ED
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I am FAR from and expert, BUT, the inner race may need a tight fit, that neverseize might interfere with.
If I were doing mine, it would be clean and dry.
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Ed,
I have my triple tree sitting in the freezer over night. Will then heat up the new bearing.
Want to look for a piece of pipe that will fit over the tube and allow me to tap the bearing down.
Just have to remember to put dust cover on first ( forgot one time in the past, was I annoyed!)
Sounds like you have it well in hand.
Have you already got the outer races out of the frame headstock?
You are lucky having a welder handy as that is really the quickest and easiest way.
A bead of weld around the race surface and they just fall out when the weld cools.
Chris
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Bill, Chris (&Rob)--
.....Unfortunately, this left a bit of a score in the tube. I ended up filling that with a wirefeed welder and then filed it down.
I believe I'll put some antiseize on the tube before I put the new bearing on.
ED
Hmmmm! Just what I was meaning!!!
Also agree with Rob, dry is the norm, though these bearings are not in the habit of spinning it's just good practice.
Bill........................;-)
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I guess none of us have Ed Korn's tool:
HEAD BEARING PULLER 1970-1995 AIRHEADS AND WE THINK all K BIKES
To remove the difficult to get at outer races of all airhead head (steering) bearings......$47 (1.0 lb.)
here:
http://www.cycleworks.net/#FrontForks
I don't have one either, but I've sort of had it in the back of my mind. I THINK the tool is for what you guys are talking about. Or maybe some Airhead club member in the other Ed's area has one Ed could borrow?
Good luck,
Ed
[smiley=1drink.gif]
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It's for the outer race Ed, the ones inside the frame steering head. I have a similar one at my disposal (the advantages of being the club technical officer, I get to be custodian of the club tools). It has two collars with a fine sharpened ridge at one end, these fit between the race and frame edge. It has a sliding wedge that drives this ridge securely in the space, then a puller arrangement to pull it up (or down) and out. It has different wedge pieces for the wheel and swingarm bearings as well.
Still haven't seen the magical puller for the inner race that's on the tube yet, but doubtless it exists somewhere!!
Bill........................'-)
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Bill, Chris (&Rob)--
Thanks. I don't have a Dremel, nor a press. I guess I'll have to do something about lacking those.... I ended up using an angle grinder to cut through the race. Unfortunately, this left a bit of a score in the tube. I ended up filling that with a wirefeed welder and then filed it down.
I believe I'll put some antiseize on the tube before I put the new bearing on.
ED
I don't think a bit of a score in the tube would matter here. It isn't like you have a potential to spin the bearing as in a high speed gearbox or wheel bearing. I also don't think anti-seize would really make a difference, but I would probably go with the other guys comments and put it on clean and dry.
As long as you freeze the triple tree, and heat the bearing it should slip on easily and then be snug.
Chris
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Adding a comment for any one else playing with steering head bearings. Don't have a welder like Ed or a puller like Bill.
So drilled an 1/8" hole on either side of the frame head just above where the bearing outer race rests. Then just used a pin drift and tapped it out, working from side to side. Came out fairly easy. Did the same for the other end. (will goop up the holes - ready for any next time)
Put the outer bearing races in the freezer and heated up the frame head stock with a paint stripper gun (just warmed it up, didn't burn paint)
Popped the race in and used a flat steel plate and a hammer to get it in flush, then used the old bearing race opposite to normal orientation to tap the new race home.
Triple tree had been in the freezer, heated up the inner race, slipped on a new dust cover, then quickly put the race on the triple tree tube. Used the old inner race that I had cut the cage off, to be a buffer block while a tapped the new race on. (actually used the plastic extension tube on my shop-vac to slip over the tube and allow me to whack the bearing down.) 10 seconds and it was in place.
Now just need some grease and put it all back together.
chris